The center of the Spanish capital is a huddle of medieval alleyways and squares, with an elegant reminder of the old Habsburg capital between the Royal Palace and Plaza Mayor. Dissecting the center is the Manhattan-style Gran Vía, while across the wide modern Castellana Avenue, leading north to the Plaza Castilla, the spacious charms of Parque del Retiro spread out, surrounding 19th-century residential areas. The lower part of Castellana Avenue is the most beautiful, stretching from the lush tree-shaded Paseo del Prado, running alongside the world-famous museum, to cosmopolitan Recoletos, with the city's most elegant cafe terraces. Fanning out around Madrid, expanding new suburbs and fashionable American-style satellite towns are gradually absorbing much of the capital's booming five-million-plus population.
Equip yourself with a good city map before exploring the town. One of the best and most detailed is the Michelin version, which sells at around 5€ ($8) in the travel sections of large stores like the Corte Inglés, FNAC, or Casa del Libro (the latter's located near the Gran Vía metro stop). The free maps given away by tourist offices and hotels are generally less detailed, giving a mere outline of the fascinating maze of little streets that form the labyrinthine center.