Hotels

Madrid's hotels may be expensive, but the city's wide range of accommodations is among the finest in the world. Just a century ago, no hotel in Madrid could match the top hotels of London or Paris, but 1906 marked a turning point. Alfonso XIII -- nearing the date of his royal wedding to Victoria of Battenberg -- was shamed by the lack of high-quality hotels. With the opening of the Ritz 2 years later, a renaissance of the capital's top hostelries began, and a gradual revision and expansion of the capital's lesser lodgings followed.

Today more than 65,000 hotel rooms blanket the city -- from grand luxe bedchambers fit for a prince to bunker-style beds in the hundreds of neighborhood hostales and pensiones (low-cost boardinghouses).

In recent years, overall lodging quality has improved, thanks to stricter laws and renovations. Most of the older Madrid hostelries in Madrid that previously failed to meet the new standards have finally been brought up to snuff.

Three-quarters of my recommendations are modern -- at least inside -- with an increased emphasis on innovative and creative character rather than the bland mass corporate style of many of the late-20th-century creations.

A prime example is the superb Catalan-owned Hesperia Madrid in the Castellana. Another eye-catcher is the five-star flagship of the prestigious Silken chain, Puerta de America, each of whose 12 floors has been designed by a different architect and whose controversially flamboyant red, orange, and yellow exterior can be seen from miles away.

Particularly impressive is the boom of the High Tech chain of Petit Palace hotels (in just 3 years nearly 20 have appeared in Madrid!). Like those of the burgeoning Hoteles Catalonia group, these hotels are mainly located in tastefully renovated 19th-century buildings. They offer chic accommodation as well as state-of-the-art Internet facilities and are well suited to business and leisure travelers alike. Our favorite is one of the most central, the Petit Palace Ducal, just off the Gran Vía.

Equally imaginative in combining a clinical jet-age style with traditional locations are the excellent-value Room-Mate Hotels (www.room-matehoteles.com), three of which opened in Madrid in 200.

Meanwhile, young budget travelers should take a look at the new switched-on face of Madrid youth hostels in the bohemian corners of Huertas and Lavapiés.

Life in a Former Bordello -- Time was, Spanish dons didn't go to the present Hotel Mónaco, Barbieri 5, 28004 Madrid (tel. 91-522-46-30; fax 91-521-16-01), just to sleep -- at least not alone. Once a closely guarded "secret" address, the Mónaco wasn't exactly what the French called a maison de tolerance. In other words, the prostitutes didn't work on the premises. The Spanish don arrived for his night out with his lady already selected from somewhere else in Madrid. He was then rented a room with his mistress. Even King Alfonso XIII, noted for his eccentricity (including the then-revolutionary wearing of pink shirts) came here with his favorite of the moment. He preferred room 20, if you're interested in nostalgia. Today the bedrooms have been restored and are furnished much in their old style, including riotous neo-rococo moldings, lavish bathtubs for that cozy two-in-a-tub session, and ceiling mirrors to better observe the action in bed. The location is on one of Madrid's inner city streets with almost more bars and restaurants than any other. A total of 34 units are rented, costing 72€ ($90) for a double, with parking costing 12€ to 15€ ($15-$19) extra. On-site is a bar, and each accommodation is air-conditioned with TV, hair dryer, and safe; American Express, Discover, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted. Metro: Gran Vía.

Tips on Accomodations

Self-Catered Lodgings -- Madrid also has a small number of apartotels. These combine the best of hotel and apartment facilities, and are designed for more self-sufficient visitors looking for the freedom to cook. Units come equipped with basic kitchen facilities and a hotel restaurant. Maid service is usually provided and the minimum stay is a week, though if time is no object, monthly or even longer stays are available. Sol, Chamberí, and Argüelles (in Plaza España) all offer apartotel accommodations.

Travelers with Disabilities -- In recent years newer hotels have incorporated ramps, wider elevators, and even adapted rooms (mainly in higher-category hotels) to better accommodate travelers with disabilities. But you should always check with the hotel in advance about specific needs and facilities available. The FAMMA Association, Calle Galileo 69 (tel. 91-593-35-50; www.servicon.es/famma) provides a useful guide to access for those with disabilities in Madrid.

Amenities & Extras -- Note that in the hotel amenity details, mention of private bathrooms is made only if all the rooms in the hotel in question do not come with a bathroom. In some hotel bathrooms in Madrid, you may encounter a European phenomenon known as a hip bath. This bathtub is about half the length of a standard tub, large enough to sit in but not long enough lie in. Think of it as a half-size or sit-down tub. In the reviews that follow, I have noted those hotels containing bathrooms with hip baths. Also, breakfast is not included in the quoted rates unless otherwise specified. And don't forget that a 7% government room tax is added to all rates.

Parking -- This is a serious problem. Few hotels have garages for the simple reason that many buildings turned into hotels were constructed before the invention of the automobile. Street parking is rarely available, and even if it is, you run the risk of having your car broken into. If you're driving into Madrid, most hotels (and most police) will allow you to park in front of the hotel long enough to unload your luggage. Someone on the staff can usually pinpoint the location of the nearest garage in the neighborhood, often giving you a map showing the way -- be prepared to walk 2 or 3 blocks to your car. Parking charges given in most hotel listings are the prices these neighborhood garages charge for an average-size vehicle.

Ratings

Spain officially rates its hotels by star designation, from one to five stars. Five stars is the highest rating in Spain, signaling a deluxe establishment complete with all the amenities and the high tariffs associated with such accommodations. Top of the range are the Gran Lujo hotels such as the Ritz and Hesperia Madrid, while standard five-star residences are beaten by the likes of Westin Palace and Orfila. Most of the establishments recommended in this guide tend to be three- and four-star hotels, as epitomized by solid midrange recommendations like the Claridge. Hotels granted one and two stars -- like the Santander and Persal -- are generally less comfortable, with limited plumbing and other physical facilities, but are often perfectly clean and decent places. Similarly endowed pensiones (guesthouses), like the homely Armesto and Riesco, land at the bottom of the range aimed at dedicated budget travelers. In inexpensive hotels, by the way, be warned that you'll have to carry your bags to and from your room. Don't expect bellboys or doormen to be around to it for you.

Frommer's Star Rating System -- These ratings reflect my personal evaluation of a hotel, based on a variety of overall factors ranging from atmosphere and character to facilities and standard of service. Those in the Very Expensive and Expensive categories are on a scale of one (highly recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Those in the Moderate and Inexpensive categories rate from zero (recommended) to two stars (very highly recommended). If, after a stay in one of the hotels listed in this guide, you have any views on the level of recommendation -- or lack of it -- please let me know.

Family-Friendly Hotels

Meliá Castilla -- Children can spend hours and all their extra energy in the hotel's swimming pool and gymnasium. On the grounds is a showroom exhibiting the latest European automobiles. Hotel services include babysitting, providing fun for kids and parents too. tel. 91-567-50-00.

The Tirol -- This centrally located government-rated three-star hotel is a favorite of families seeking good comfort at moderate price. It has a cafeteria. tel. 91-548-19-00.