Nightlife

Madrid abounds in dance halls, tascas, cafes, theaters, movie houses, music halls, and nightclubs. Proceed carefully through this maze of offerings -- you'll discover that many are strictly for residents or Spanish-speakers.

Because dinner is served late in Spain, nightlife doesn't really get under way until after 11pm, and it generally lasts until around 3am -- Madrileños are so fond of prowling about at night that they're known around Spain as gatos (cats). In fact, if you arrive at 9:30pm at a club, you'll have the place all to yourself, if it's even open.

In most clubs a one-drink minimum is the rule: Feel free to nurse one drink through the entire evening's entertainment.

In summer, Madrid sponsors a series of plays, concerts, and films, making the city a virtual free festival. Pick up a copy of the Guía del Ocio (available at most newsstands) for listings of these events. This guide also provides information about occasional discounts for commercial events, such as the concerts that are given in Madrid's parks. Also check the program of Fundación Juan March, Calle Castelló 77 (tel. 91-435-42-40; Metro: Núñez de Balboa). Tapping into funds that were bequeathed to it by a generous financier (Sr. Juan March), it stages free concerts of Spanish and international classical music within a concert hall at its headquarters at Calle Castelló 77. In most cases, these are 90-minute events that are presented every Monday and Saturday at noon, and every Wednesday at 7:30pm.

Like flamenco clubs, discos tend to be expensive, but they often open for what is erroneously called afternoon sessions (7-10pm). Although discos charge entry fees, at an afternoon session the cost might be as low as 3€ ($3.75), rising to 15€ ($19) and beyond for a night session -- that is, beginning at 11:30pm and lasting until the early morning hours. Therefore, go early, dance until 10pm, and then proceed to dinner (you'll be eating at the fashionable hour).

Nightlife is so plentiful in Madrid that the city can be roughly divided into the following "night zones."

Plaza Mayor/Puerta del Sol -- The most popular areas from the standpoint of both tradition and tourist interest, they can also be dangerous, so explore them with caution, especially late at night. They are filled with tapas bars and cuevas (drinking caves). Here it is customary to begin a tasca crawl, going to tavern after tavern, sampling the wine in each, along with a selection of tapas. The major streets for such a crawl are Cava de San Miguel, Cava Alta, and Cava Baja. You can order pinchos y raciones (tasty snacks and tidbits).

Gran Vía -- This area contains mainly cinemas and theaters. Most of the after-dark action takes place on little streets branching off the Gran Vía.

Plaza de Isabel II/Plaza de Oriente -- Another area much frequented by tourists. Many restaurants and cafes flourish here, including the famous Café de Oriente.

Chueca -- Along such streets as Hortaleza, Infantas, Barquillo, and San Lucas, this is the gay nightlife district, with dozens of clubs. Cheap restaurants, along with a few female striptease joints, are also found here. This area can also be dangerous in the early hours of the morning, though the customary presence of weekend revelers who throng the streets till around 3am often manages to deter potential pickpockets and muggers. The reasonably active police presence at night also helps.

Argüelles/Moncloa -- For university students, this part of town sees most of the action. Many dance clubs are found here, along with ale houses and fast-food joints. The area is bounded by Pintor Rosales, Cea Bermúdez, Bravo Murillo, San Bernardo, and Conde Duque.