Madrid draws the finest matadors in Spain. If a matador hasn't proven his worth in the Plaza de Toros Monumental de las Ventas, Alcalá 237 (tel. 91-356-22-00; www.las-ventas.com; Metro: Ventas), he hasn't been recognized as a top-flight artist. The major season begins during the Fiestas de San Isidro, patron saint of Madrid, on May 15. This is the occasion for a series of fights, during which talent scouts are in the audience. Matadors who distinguish themselves in the ring are signed up for Majorca, Málaga, and other places. The bullfight season ends during the last two weekends in October (Feria del Otono).
The best way to get tickets to the bullfights is to go to the stadium box office (Fri-Sun 10am-2pm and 5-8pm). Concierges for virtually every upper-bracket hotel can also acquire tickets. Alternatively, you can contact one of Madrid's best ticket agents, Localidades Galicia, Plaza del Carmen 1 (tel. 91-531-27-32; Metro: Puerto del Sol), open Tuesday to Saturday 9:30am to 1:30pm and 4:30 to 7pm, Sunday 9:30am to 1:30pm. Tickets to bullfights are 12€ to 126€ ($15-$158), depending on the event and the position of your seat. Front-row seats are barreras. Delanteras -- third-row seats -- are available in both the alta (high) and the baja (low) sections. The cheapest seats, filas, afford the worst view and are in the sun (sol) the whole time. The best and most expensive seats are in the shade (sombra). Bullfights are held on Sunday and holidays throughout most of the year, and every day during certain festivals, which tend to last around 3 weeks, usually in the late spring. Starting times are adjusted according to the anticipated hour of sundown on the day of a performance, usually 7pm from March to October and 5pm during late autumn and early spring. Late-night fights by neophyte matadors are sometimes staged under spotlights on Saturday around 11pm. During the winter months of November to February, bullfights are replaced by a short circus season.