Getting There

Any information about fares or even flights in the highly volatile airline industry is not written in stone; even travel agencies with banks of computers have a hard time keeping abreast of last-minute discounts and schedule changes.

Below is a list of major airlines that fly to Madrid. For up-to-the-minute information, check with a travel agent or the individual airlines.

The Major Airlines

From North America -- Flights to Madrid from the U.S. East Coast take 6 to 7 hours, depending on the season and prevailing winds.

The national carrier of Spain, Iberia Airlines (tel. 800/772-4642; www.iberia.com), offers more routes to and within Spain than any other airline, with nonstop service to Madrid from both New York and Miami. From Miami, Iberia takes off for at least eight destinations in Mexico and Central America, and in cooperation with its air partner, Ladeco (an airline based in Chile), to dozens of destinations throughout South America as well. Iberia also flies from Los Angeles to Madrid, with a brief stop in Miami; and offers services to Madrid through Montreal two and three times a week, depending on the season. Also available are attractive rates on fly/drive programs within Iberia and Europe.

Iberia's fares are lowest if you reserve an APEX (advance-purchase excursion) ticket at least 21 days in advance, schedule your return 7 to 30 days after your departure, and leave and return between Monday and Thursday. Fares, which are subject to change, are lower during off-season. Most transatlantic flights are on carefully maintained 747s and DC-10s, and in-flight services reflect Spanish traditions, values, and cuisine.

American Airlines (tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) offers daily nonstop service to Madrid from its massive hub in Miami, with excellent connections from there to the rest of the airline's impressive North and South American network.

Delta (tel. 800/241-4141; www.delta.com) maintains daily nonstop service from Atlanta (centerpiece of its worldwide network) to Madrid. Delta's Dream Vacation department maintains access to fly/drive programs, land packages, and escorted bus tours through the Iberian Peninsula.

Since 1991, United Airlines (tel. 800/241-6522; www.ual.com) has flown passengers nonstop every day to Madrid from Washington, D.C. United also offers fly/drive programs and escorted motor coach tours.

Continental Airlines (tel. 800/231-0856; www.continental.com) offers between six and seven nonstop flights per week, depending on the season, to Madrid from Newark, New Jersey, an airport many New York residents prefer.

US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322; www.usairways.com) offers daily nonstop service between Philadelphia and Madrid. US Airways offers connections to Philadelphia from more than 50 cities throughout the United States, Canada, and The Bahamas.

Most U.S.-based carriers offer service solely to Madrid; once in Madrid, Spain's airline, Iberia, offers low fares to cities throughout the country.

From Great Britain -- The two major carriers that fly between the United Kingdom and Spain are British Airways (tel. 0845/773-3377, or 020/8759-5511 in London; www.british-airways.com) and Iberia (tel. 020/7830-0011 in London). In spite of the frequency of their routes, however, I suspect most vacationing Brits fly charter (discussed later).

More than a dozen daily flights, on either BA or Iberia, depart from both London's Heathrow and Gatwick airports. The Midlands is served by flights from Manchester and Birmingham, two major airports that can also be used by Scots flying to Spain. Approximately seven flights a day go between London and Madrid (trip time: 2-2 1/2 hr.). The best air deals on scheduled flights from the U.K. are those requiring a Saturday-night stopover.

Low-cost flights are now provided from a variety of British cities to Madrid by easyJet. No tickets are issued and no specific seats allocated (though families with children do have priority). All bookings are made by e-mail. Check www.easyjet.com.

Ryanair is also operating bargain-priced flights from London Stansted to Valladolid (currently 2 1/2 hours by bus or train from Madrid but soon to be accessible by an hour-long high-speed train). Check www.ryanair.com for full flight details.

Europass: A Cost-Cutting Technique

A noteworthy cost-cutting option is Iberia's Europass. Available only to passengers who simultaneously arrange for transatlantic passage on Iberia and a minimum of two additional flights, it allows passage on any flight within Iberia's European or Mediterranean dominion for $250 for the first two flights and $133 for each additional flight. This is especially attractive for passengers wishing to combine trips to Spain with, for example, visits to such far-flung destinations as Cairo, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, Moscow, or Munich. For details, contact Iberia (tel. 800/772-4642; www.iberia.com). Iberia's main Spain-based competitor is Air Europa (tel. 888/238-7672; www.air-europa.es), which offers nonstop service from New York's JFK Airport to Madrid, with continuing service to major cities within Spain; fares are competitive.

New Air Travel Security Measures

In the wake of the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, in New York -- and subsequently March 11, 2004, in Madrid -- the airline industry began implementing sweeping security measures in airports. Expect a lengthy check-in process and extensive delays. Although regulations vary from airline to airline, you can expedite the process by taking the following steps:

Arrive early. Arrive at the airport at least 2 hours before your scheduled flight.

Try not to drive your car to the airport. Parking and curbside access to the terminal may be limited. Call ahead and check.

Don't count on curbside check-in. Some airlines and airports have stopped curbside check-in altogether, whereas others offer it on a limited basis. For up-to-date information on specific regulations and implementations, check with the individual airline.

Be sure to carry plenty of documentation. A government-issued photo ID (federal, state, or local) is now required. You may need to show this at various checkpoints. With an e-ticket, you may be required to have with you printed confirmation of purchase, and perhaps even the credit card with which you bought your ticket. This varies from airline to airline, so call ahead to make sure you have the proper documentation. And be sure that your ID is up-to-date; an expired driver's license, for example, may keep you from boarding the plane altogether.

Know what you can carry on -- and what you can't. Travelers in the United States are now limited to one carry-on bag, plus one personal bag (such as a purse or a briefcase). The FAA has also issued a list of newly restricted carry-on items.

Prepare to be searched. Expect spot-checks. Electronic items, such as a laptop or cellphone, should be readied for additional screening. Limit the metal items you wear on your person.

It's no joke. When a check-in agent asks if someone other than you packed your bag, don't decide that this is the time to be funny. The agents will not hesitate to call an alarm.

No ticket, no gate access. Only ticketed passengers will be allowed beyond the screener checkpoints, except for those people with specific medical or parental needs.

Getting into Town from the Airport

There are good links from Madrid's Barajas Airport (terminals 1, 2, and 3 at present) by Metro to the city center (1€/$1.25) and by special direct bus (3€/$3.75) to the Plaza de Colón. A new public bus service (no. 200; 1€/$1.25) also runs from the airport to the centrally located Avenida de America bus and Metro terminus.

Inside the airport free shuttle buses operate between new long-haul Terminals 4 and 4S (the Satellite building) and the other terminals. (There is also an automated passenger transport system [APM] between 4 and 4S.)

If you've rented a car and are driving into the city yourself, check www. asirt.org/roadwatch.htm and www.onemotoring.com for a rundown on international road signs. (Some of the links here can be a bit hit or miss, though.)