Frommer's Review
In the heart of Madrid, this famous square was known as the Plaza de Arrabal during medieval times, when it stood outside the city wall. The original architect of Plaza Mayor itself was Juan Gómez de Mora, who worked during the reign of Philip III. Under the Habsburgs, the square rose in importance as the site of public spectacles, including the abominable autos de fe, in which heretics were burned. Bullfights, knightly tournaments, and festivals were also staged here.
Three times the buildings on the square burned -- in 1631, 1672, and 1790 -- but each time the plaza bounced back. After the last big fire, it was completely redesigned by Juan de Villanueva.
Nowadays a Christmas fair is held around the equestrian statue of Philip III (dating from 1616) in the center of the square. On summer nights the Plaza Mayor becomes the virtual living room of Madrid, as tourists sip sangria at the numerous cafes and listen to the music performances, many of which are spontaneous. The walls of the former Casa de la Panadería on the square's northern side feature murals that some have compared unflatteringly to comic strips.
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