El Amparo

One of Madrid's most elegant gastronomic enclaves, El Amparo is built around the courtyard of an old corrala whose facade is covered by cascading vines. Inside, three tiers of rough-hewn wooden beams surround tables set with pink linens and glistening silver, above which a sloping skylight floods the interior with sun by day, while at night, pinpoints of light from the high-tech hanging lanterns create intimate shadows. Polite, uniformed waiters serve well-prepared, highly inventive nouvelle cuisine dishes like cigalas salteadas de con raviolis de queso (crayfish seasoned with ravioli cheese, honey, and rosemary) and lechona con manzana y membrillo (roast suckling pig with apple and quince seasoning). The standout dessert (another exquisite mouthful) is the brioche caramelizado con ciruelas al vino tinto y crema de café (caramelized brioche with plums marinated in red wine and coffee cream).

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