Gran Café de Gijón

If you want food and atmosphere like it was in Franco's heyday, drop in here. Each of the old European capitals has a coffeehouse that traditionally attracts the literati -- in Madrid it's the Gijón, which opened in 1888 in the heyday of the Belle Epoque. Artists and writers still patronize this venerated old cafe, spending hours over a coffee as did famous literary characters in the past like Ortega y Gasset and Miguel de Unamuno -- who came to have their tertulias (artistically oriented chats) here. Open windows look out onto the wide paseo, and a large terrace is perfect for sun worshippers and bird-watchers. Along one side of the cafe is a stand-up bar; on the lower level is a restaurant. In summer, sit in the garden to enjoy a blanco y negro (black coffee with ice cream) or a mixed drink.

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