El Bodegón

Frommer's Review

El Bodegón is imbued with the atmosphere of a gentleman's club for hunting enthusiasts. The restaurant is near such deluxe hotels as the Castellana and the Miguel Angel, and attracts a number of international globetrotters, especially in the evening. King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofía have dined here.

Waiters in black and white, with gold braid and buttons, bring dignity to the food service. Even bottled water is served champagne-style, chilled in a silver floor stand. There are two main dining rooms, both conservative and oak-beamed in the country-inn style. I recommend starting with cream of crayfish bisque or velvety vichyssoise. Main-course selections include grilled filet mignon with classic béarnaise sauce and venison bourguignon. Other choices include shellfish au gratin Escoffier, quails Fernand Point, tartare of raw fish marinated in parsley-enriched vinaigrette, and smoked salmon.

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