Restaurants in Madrid

Madrid boasts the most richly varied cuisine in Spain. Its national eating spots cover everything from Andalusian gazpacho and Valencian paella (most famed of all Spain's rice and seafood dishes) to Galician pulpo (octopus), Asturian fabada (rich pork stew), and Basque bacalao (cod). And let's not forget Madrid's very own cocido (lamb and vegetable stew), callos (tripe) and, lesser known perhaps to visitors, oreja (ear: yes, you heard right). Plus neighboring Castile's outrageously delicious infanticide dishes: lechona (roast suckling pig) and corderito (baby lamb, best sampled in Segovia).

The region's dishes are both hearty and logical given the setting and winter climate, but the big surprise is that though Madrid is a landlocked city, surrounded by a vast arid plateau, it receives a daily supply of fish which is transported from the Atlantic north in large containers to supply top restaurants like La Trainera and Cabo Mayor with the country's best and freshest seafood.

Add to all that a new wave of sophisticated polyglot fusion cuisine, deft, brilliant, and light years away from the full-bodied traditionals mentioned above -- and the scene takes on another dimension. Thanks to highly inventive and imaginative chefs the city's cuisine is now truly considered international.

There are literally thousands of places to dine in Madrid, and when you’re first confronted with the choices, it can be overwhelming. Madrid has many long-standing gastronomic traditions, the most developed tapas scene in the world, and access to everything the country has to offer. If you like regional Spanish food, you’ll find plenty of examples here. If you like seafood, you’re in good company—fresh fish and shellfish are transported from the coast daily. In recent years, young superstar chefs, some of whom trained at the legendary El Bulli, have opened restaurants of breathtaking sophistication. Madrid, however, excels at more casual dining. Once you get past the idea that you should have dinner in a formal restaurant, you’ll discover you can eat very well indeed in Madrid’s bars, taverns, and even its markets. No list can be comprehensive, not least because so many places come and go. You’ll probably stumble across some gems. But try to avoid wasting time and money on downright bad places, including some famous names whoshould know better.

Tip: Reservations are advised for all restaurants in the expensive category.

Meal Times in Madrid

Breakfast (desayuno) is taken in cafes or in your hotel between 7:30 and 10am, though if you want to make a very early start you'll find the occasional bar open around 5:30 or 6am.

It's the custom in Madrid to consume lunch (almuerzo) as the big meal of the day, from 2 to 4pm. After a recuperative siesta, Madrileños enjoy tapas -- and indeed, no Madrid culinary experience would be complete without a tour of the city's many tapas bars.

All this nibbling is followed by a lighter dinner (cena) in a restaurant, usually from 9:30pm to as late as midnight. Many restaurants, however, start serving dinner at 8pm to accommodate visitors from other countries who don't like to dine so late.

Most restaurants close 1 day a week, so be sure to check ahead. Hotel dining rooms are generally open 7 days. Generally, reservations are not necessary, except at popular, top-notch restaurants.

Types of Restaurants & Menus in Madrid

Cafeterias usually are not self-service establishments but restaurants serving light, often American, cuisine. Go for breakfast instead of dining at your hotel, unless it's included in the room price. Some cafeterias offer no hot meals, but many feature combined plates of fried eggs, french fries, veal, and lettuce-and-tomato salad, which make adequate fare, or snacks like hot dogs and hamburgers.

Restaurants share one thing in common that cafeterias do not: By law, they must offer a fixed-price lunch menu that includes two main courses, a dessert, and (usually) wine. In simple, basic budget-priced economicas, these may cost as little as 15€ all-inclusive, while in top-quality deluxe eating spots with famous-name chefs -- where more exotic and esoteric "tasting menus" are offered -- they can be as high as 250€ per head (often without wine). In between these two extremes -- though distinctly nearer the economicas in price -- comes a middle range that includes historic tabernas, all-purpose eating spots serving an eclectically national and international choice of dishes, and regional restaurants that concentrate on the specific cuisines of different parts of Spain (Asturias and Galicia are most commonly represented here).

Order the menú del día (menu of the day) or cubierto (fixed price) -- both fixed-price menus are based on what is fresh at the market that day. These are the dining bargains in Madrid, although often lacking the quality of more expensive a la carte dining. Usually each will include a first course, such as fish soup or hors d'oeuvres, followed by a main dish, plus bread, dessert, and the house wine. You won't have a large choice. The menú turístico is a similar fixed-price menu, but for many it's too large, especially at lunch. Only those with big appetites will find it the best bargain.

Dining in Markets: Most visitors to Madrid quickly discover Mercado de San Miguel, the 19th-century covered market near Plaza Mayor that has been converted into a gourmet food court. But why not seek out some of Madrid’s neighborhood markets for something more authentic and better value? Mercado Antón Martín, Calle de Santa Isabel, 5 (Mon–Sat 9am–11:30pm; metro: Antón Martín), includes a traditional food market and a gastronomic market with good pop-ups and tapas bars, many of which carry on after the stalls have closed. In Lavapiés, Mercado de San Fernando, Calle de Embajadores, 41 (daily 9am–6pm; metro: Lavapiés or Embajadores), has a strong community spirit and a picturesque mix of old-style market characters and hipsters selling artisanal coffee and craft beer. Chueca’s Mercado San Anton, Calle de Augusto Figueroa, 24 (daily 9:30am–midnight; metro: Chueca), has been redeveloped as a thriving food court in a huge modern block with a rooftop terrace. For high-end ham, cheese, and wine (and Casa Dani’s legendary tortilla), head to Mercado de la Paz in Salamanca (Calle de Ayala, 28; Mon–Fri 9am–8pm, Sat 9am–2:30pm; metro: Serrano).

Picnic meals: On a hot day, do as the Madrileños do: Secure the makings of a picnic lunch and head for Casa de Campo (metro: El Batón), those once-royal hunting grounds in the west of Madrid across the Manzanares River. Children delight in this adventure, as they can also visit a boating lake, the Parque de Atracciones, and the Madrid zoo.

Tipping in Madrid Restaurants

Meals include service and tax (7%-12%, depending on the restaurant) but not drinks, which add to the tab considerably.

In most cases, service can seem perfunctory by North American standards. Waiters are matter-of-fact, do not fawn over you, or return to the table to ask how things are going. This can seem off-putting at first, but if you observe closely, you'll see that Spanish waiters typically handle more tables than their North American counterparts and they generally work quickly and more efficiently.

Follow the local custom and don't overtip. Theoretically, service is included in the price of the meal, but it's customary to leave an additional 10%.

Churros and Chocolate: A Madrid Tradition

At some point, all Madrid comes into Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo San Ginés, 5; tel. 91-365-65-46) for a cup of thick hot chocolate and fried dough sticks known as churros—for dipping. It’s so popular that it now occupies several buildings on the corner of an alleyway close to Plaza Mayor and stays open 24 hours every day of the year. Stand in line to place your order at the counter near the entrance, then find a seat. After a couple of minutes, a waiter will arrive with a tray stacked high with cups of chocolate and plates of crisp, freshly cooked churros. If you don’t want to wait in line, Chocolatería 1902 (Calle de San Martín, 2; tel. 91-522-55-75) a two-minute walk away is also excellent. It is open from 7am until 11pm, until midnight on Friday and Saturday.