Maine has two major destination downhill ski resorts, as well as ten smaller areas. The two big resorts, Sugarloaf and Sunday River, are under the same ownership, but both have distinct characteristics. Sugarloaf is compactly arrayed on a single large peak and offers the highest vertical drop in New England after Vermont's Killington. The resort's base area is self-contained, like an established campus, and is a big hit with families.
Sunday River has grown lengthwise along an undulating ridge -- the local nickname used to be "Someday Bigger." A less-established resort, its base area is still a bit rough around the edges -- think of it as a brash community college. It offers diverse terrain and state-of-the-art snowmaking and grooming.
Medium and small mountains cater primarily to a local market but offer good alternatives for travelers who'd just as soon avoid the flash and crowds of the two larger areas. Of the midsize areas, Shawnee Peak and Saddleback have small resort complexes at or near their bases and offer better bargains and fewer crowds; Shawnee Peak has night skiing until 10pm 6 nights each week. Mount Abram, near Sunday River, has a solid reputation with telemark skiers. Squaw Mountain overlooking Moosehead Lake is the best choice for an old-fashioned bargain and features twisty, narrow trails and great views from the summit.
For a pamphlet with basic information about Maine skiing, contact the Ski Maine Association (P.O. Box 7566, Portland, ME 04112; www.skimaine.com). The website also offers up-to-date reports on ski conditions during the winter.
Cross-country skiers have a glorious mix of terrain to choose from, though groomed cross-country ski areas aren't as extensive here as in New Hampshire or Vermont. Sunday River, Saddleback, and Sugarloaf have cross-country ski areas at or near their downhill complexes. A more remote destination, The Birches (tel. 800/825-9453) on Moosehead Lake has 24 miles of groomed trails. For more about cross-country ski areas in Maine, contact the Maine Nordic Council (tel. 800/754-9263; www.mnsc.com).