Hotels

Persistent attempts at urban renewal have reaped big rewards for downtown Memphis, which is enjoying a long-awaited transformation into a vibrant metropolitan area. Among downtown hotels, the ultra-chic new Westin on Beale Street is the luxury chain's first in Tennessee.

The city's better hotels used to be clustered in East Memphis, which is more than 20 miles by interstate highway from downtown. While these properties still attract business travelers as well as those with families wanting to avoid the drunken revelry that can sometimes consume the Beale Street area, downtown also has much to offer visitors of all budgets and backgrounds. If you book judiciously, you can avoid the rowdy after-hours crowds. Downtown Memphis also boasts an ever-increasing list of family-oriented attractions, making a stay here the best way to experience what Memphis is really all about.

The Midtown area is another option, and though less convenient to Beale Street, it is near many museums and restaurants. Elvis fans may want to stay near Graceland, but beyond the mansion, the area has little to offer. Besides, you can pick up The King's vibes no matter where you stay in Memphis. Like Waldo, he's everywhere.

Virtually all hotels now offer nonsmoking rooms and others equipped for guests with disabilities. Many larger hotels are also adding special rooms for hearing-impaired travelers. When making a reservation, be sure to request the type of room you need.

If you'll be traveling with children, always check into policies regarding children. Some hotels let children under 12 stay free, while others set the cutoff age at 18. Still others charge you for the kids, but let them eat for free in the hotel's restaurant.

Almost all hotels offer special corporate and government rates. However, I have listed only the official published rates (also known as rack rates). You may be able to get the corporate rates simply by asking; it's always worth a try. Most of the more expensive hotels have lower weekend rates, while inexpensive hotels tend to raise their rates slightly on the weekend.

If you get quoted a price that seems exorbitantly high, you might have accidentally stumbled upon a special holiday or event rate. Such rates are usually in effect for major Coliseum events and college football games. If this is the case, try scheduling your visit for a different date if possible. Barring this possibility, try calling around to hotels farther out of town, where rates aren't as likely to be affected by special events. In fact, at any time, the farther you get from major business districts, the less you're likely to spend on a room. If you don't mind driving 20 or 30 minutes, you can almost halve the amount you'll need to spend on a room.

For the purposes of this guide, I have placed hotels in the following rate categories: very expensive, more than $175 for a double room; expensive, $125 to $175; moderate, $75 to $125; and inexpensive, less than $75. Please keep in mind, however, that the rates listed do not include taxes, which in Memphis add up to a whopping 15.95% (9.25% sales tax and 6.7% room tax).

Elvis Slept Here

You might not mistake this former housing project for an upscale hotel, but, then again, this is Memphis -- where offbeat surprises seem to lurk around every corner.

Elvis Presley lived here at Lauderdale Courts with his parents, Vernon and Gladys, when he was still a wide-eyed teenager (September 1949 to January 1953). Spared from demolition, in recent years the site has been transformed into Uptown Square, 252 N. Lauderdale, a trendy apartment complex that has preserved its sole historic unit as "The Elvis Suite."

For $250 a night, tourists may rent this first-floor apartment that includes a 1950s-style kitchen and sleeping room for four people. Before you book, be aware that this is a non-smoking property without wheelchair access, and that there's a 2-night minimum and 6-night maximum per stay. For reservations, call (tel. 901/521-8219; www.lauderdalecourts.com).

Family-Friendly Hotels

Embassy Suites -- The indoor pool and gardenlike atrium lobby provide a place for the kids to play even on rainy or cold days, and the two-room suites give parents a private room of their own. Video games are another plus for the kids.

Homewood Suites -- With a pool and basketball court and grounds that resemble an upscale apartment complex, this East Memphis hotel is a good bet for families. Plus, the evening social hour includes enough food to serve as dinner (and thus save you quite a bit on your meal budget).

Downtown

If you want to be where the action is, your first choice ought to be downtown. Besides Beale Street, this area is also where the majority of the city's major sporting events, concerts, and cultural performances take place. If you want to feel as though you've been to Memphis, you need to experience the city's exciting revitalization.

Midtown

Midtown is a reasonable alternative if you're looking for a quieter location that also offers cultural options but without the parking and traffic hassles that can sometimes snarl downtown.

Inexpensive -- In addition to the hotel listed, national and regional chain motels in the area include the following: Holiday Inn Select Medical Center/Midtown, 1180 Union Ave. (tel. 901/276-1175), charging $89 double; Red Roof Inn, 42 S. Camilla St. (tel. 901/526-1050), charging $79 double; and Motel 6, 210 S. Pauline St. (tel. 901/528-0650), charging $54 double. Second floor and lobby have Wi-Fi.

East Memphis

If your visit to Memphis brings you to any of the suburban business parks in the perimeter of the city, East Memphis is a smart choice. It's centrally located between downtown hot spots and outlying suburbs, where companies such as Federal Express and International Paper have their corporate headquarters.

Inexpensive to Moderate -- National and regional motel chains in the area include the following: Hyatt Place, 1220 Primacy Pkwy. (tel. 901/680-9700), charging $109 to $149 double; and La Quinta Inn & Suites, 1236 Primacy Pkwy. (tel. 901/374-0330), charging $69-$99 double.

The Airport & Graceland Areas

Obviously, if you need to be near the airport, any of these properties will suit your needs. But truthfully, the airport area encompasses neighborhoods most locals would not feel safe driving in late at night. To get a sense of what Memphis is all about, you really should try to stay in or near downtown. Besides, with the plethora of tour buses and shuttle services available, access to Graceland is as easy from downtown as it is from the airport area.

Inexpensive -- Aside from the hotels listed, visitors may search for chain motels.