A Day trip to Dunk Island -- If you're a beachcomber at heart, Dunk will fulfill your dreams. Just 5km (3 miles) offshore from Mission Beach, Dunk was the inspiration for writer E. J. Banfield's book Confessions of a Beachcomber. The nervous Banfield moved to Dunk at the turn of the 20th century to live out what he thought would be a short life. He lived another 23 years, which must say something about the restorative powers of a piece of paradise. Ed and Bertha Banfield's graves are alongside the track to Mount Kootaloo.
Thick bushland and rainforest cover much of the island's 12 sq. km (4 3/4 sq. miles), most of which is a national park. The island is renowned for its myriad birds and electric-blue Ulysses butterflies.
You can stay at the upscale Dunk Island resort or pop over for the day to snorkel, hike in the forest, or do all sorts of watersports. Quick Cat Cruises (tel. 07/4068 7289) runs transfers for A$52 (US$47/£23) adults round-trip, half-price for kids 4 to 14, free for kids under 4. Daily departures are from Clump Point Jetty at 8:30and 10am, and 2pm, returning at 1:30, 3:30, and 4:30pm. You can also get to Dunk by water taxi (tel. 07/4068 8310), which runs five times a day from Wongaling Beach, takes 10 minutes, and costs A$30 (US$27/£14) adults round-trip, half-price for children. Ask at your hotel about transfers between Clump Point and South Mission Beach.
Once on Dunk, you pay as you go for activities and equipment rental. Everything from water-skiing to catamaran sailing is available, and Dunk has lovely beaches and half a dozen rainforest walking trails, ranging in duration from 15 minutes to 4 hours.
Coral Sea Kayaking (tel. 07/4068 9154, or 0419/782 453 mobile; www.coralseakayaking.com) runs full-day guided paddles to Dunk Island. It takes about 90 minutes to reach the small islands near Dunk and you may see dolphins and turtles. There's a stop at a nearby island for a midmorning snack; and while on Dunk Island, you can walk in the rainforest and swim or snorkel in a secluded bay. The trip costs A$126 (US$113/£57) per person, including park fees, lunch, and snacks.