Planning a Trip

Bring Traveler's Checks, or Card It -- The only banking facility on Moorea's northwest corner is Banque de Polynésie's ATM in Le Petit Village shopping center, opposite the old Club Med site. Since you cannot be assured of withdrawing cash from this machine, and it's a long and expensive trip to the banks at Maharepa, bring traveler's checks if you're staying in this area, or be prepared to put most of your expenditures on a credit card.

Getting Around Moorea

Where you stay and most of what you will want to see and do lie on Moorea's north coast, between the ferry wharf at Vaiare and the area known as Haapiti on the island's northwestern corner. A large Club Med dominated Haapiti until it closed in 2002, and locals still say "Club Med" when referring to this area.

All ferries from Papeete land at Vaiare on Moorea's east coast 5km (3 miles) south of Temae Airport.

By Bus -- The only scheduled buses on Moorea are those that carry passengers from and to the morning and afternoon ferries at Vaiare. Tell the drivers where you're going; they will show you which vehicle is going to your hotel. The trip from Vaiare to the end of the line at the old Club Med site takes about 1 hour. The buses also return from the Petite Village shopping center in Haapiti to Vaiare, leaving the shopping center about 1 hour prior to each ferry departure. They go by the hotels, so ask the front-desk staff when you can expect the next bus to pass. Or you can flag them down along the road elsewhere. The one-way fare is 300CFP (US$3), regardless of direction or length of ride.

By Taxi -- Unless you catch a ferry bus or rent a vehicle, you're at the expensive mercy of Moorea's taxi owners, who don't run around looking for customers. The only taxi stand is at the airport (tel. 56.10.18). It's staffed daily from 6am to 6pm. Your hotel desk can call one for you, or else phone Pero Taxis (tel. 56.14.93), Albert Tours (tel. 56.13.53), or Justine Taxi (tel. 77.48.26). Make advance reservations for service between 6pm and 6am.

Taxi fares are 800CFP (US$8) during the day, 1,700CFP (US$17) at night, plus 110CFP (US$1.10) per kilometer. They double from 8pm to 6am. Expect to pay about 2,000CFP (US$20) one-way from the ferry or airport to the Cook's Bay area, about 4,000CFP (US$40) one-way from the airport or Cook's Bay to the Haapiti area, and less for stops along the way. Be sure that you understand what the fare will be before you get in.

By Rental Car & Scooter -- Avis (tel. 800/331-1212 or 56.32.68; www.avis.com) and Europcar (tel. 800/227-7368 or 56.34.00; www.europcar.com) both have booths at the Vaiare ferry wharf and at several hotels. Although I usually rent from Avis, Europcar is the more widespread and slightly less expensive of the two, with unlimited-kilometer rates starting at 8,600CFP (US$86) a day. The local firm Albert Rent-a-Car (tel. 56.13.53) is the least expensive, with unlimited-kilometer rates starting at 8,000CFP (US$80) for a day. Insurance is included in all rates, but gasoline is not.

In addition to automobiles, Avis also rents little "Fun Cars" (noisy contraptions with two seats and no top) and somewhat larger (and safer) open-air Be-Up vehicles. Both are fun to drive on sunny days. So are scooters, which Europcar and Albert rent starting at 4,800CFP (US$48) for 4 hours and 6,000CFP (US$60) for 24 hours, including gas, full insurance, and unlimited kilometers.

Making reservations for cars and scooters is a very good idea, especially on weekends, when many Tahiti residents come to Moorea.

By Bicycle -- The 60km (36-mile) road around Moorea is relatively flat. The two major hills are on the west side of Cook's Bay and just behind the Sofitel Moorea Beach Resort (the latter is worth the climb, as it has a stupendous view of Tahiti). Some resorts have bikes for their guests to use, and Europcar rents mountain bikes for about 1,600CFP (US$16) for 8 hours, 2,000CFP (US$20) for all day.