Restaurants

The restaurant scene changes quickly on Moorea, so I can only hope the ones I recommend are still in business when you get here. As on Tahiti, you can save by eating at snack bars for breakfast, lunch, or an early dinner.

Call for Transportation -- Most Moorea restaurants will either come get you or pay half if not all of your taxi fare if you make reservations for dinner. Although they restrict this service to nearby guests, depending on the size of your group, it pays to call ahead and ask.

Check Out Moorea's Roulottes -- As on Tahiti, your best bet for inexpensive nighttime meals are the local roulottes. The best of these meal wagons, Roulotte Jules & Claudine, at the Municipal Market in Pao Pao (tel. 56.25.31), serves a mixed menu of poisson cru, chow mein, and char-grilled steaks, chicken, and fish, but the best item is local shrimp in a tasty coconut-curry sauce. Prices range from 800CFP to 1,500CFP (US$8-US$15). No credit cards. Open Monday through Saturday from 6:30 to 8:30pm. You'll find another roulotte near Le Petite Village shopping center in Haapiti.

The Northwest Coast

Restaurants come and go in Le Petit Village shopping center opposite the old Club Med site. Although I wasn't particularly impressed, others have enjoyed the food at the moderately expensive La Plantation (tel. 56.45.10), opposite the Club Med site; it's one of this area's more romantic restaurants. Soft lighting, music, and dining out on a big porch help set the scene for Polynesian-influenced French fare.

Lunch on a Motu -- Even if you don't spend a day on a little islet off the northwest coast, you can pop over for a French or Tahitian lunch at Motu Moea (tel. 74.96.96). Book at your hotel activities desk, since reservations are essential for a boat shuttle leaving at 10am, noon, or 2pm daily. Round-trip boat transfers cost about 1,000CPF (US$10), while main courses average about 2,000CFP (US$20). You'll be on your own out here, so follow the advice of the activities staff and don't swim in the pass between the islets.

The Cook's Bay Area

Nicely spiced pies come from the wood-fired oven at Allo Pizza, in Cook's Bay near the gendarmerie (tel. 56.18.22). There are only two tables, so most folks carry out or call for delivery if they're staying between the Sofitel Moorea Beach Resort and the Sheraton Moorea. Prices range from 900CFP to 1,900CFP (US$9-US$19). Open Tuesday to Saturday from 11am to 2pm and 5 to 9pm, Sunday from 5 to 9pm.