Kietzh

Frommer's Review

From the pre-revolutionary Russian alphabet used on the menu to the restaurant's name (a mythical city that would disappear when enemies approached), Kitezh sees its purpose as upholding tradition and legend. If you have just one real Russian meal in Moscow, make it here. The restaurant is poised in a stone basement that re-creates a 17th-century farmhouse atmosphere, across from a 14th-century monastery on a quiet stretch of historic Petrovka Street, a great district for a post-meal stroll. Allow a couple of hours to savor the large portions and to digest the various courses. Sauces are rich, divine, and heavy. This is one of the few Russian restaurants that does justice to beef stroganoff, which despite its Russian roots is more common outside Russia. The pikeperch is expertly seasoned and sauced. Desserts include thick, jello-like kisel, and light and buttery bliny with homemade jam.

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