What's New

Munich Accommodations

In hotel news, Munich witnessed the opening of the Charles Hotel (tel. 089/544-555-0; www.charleshotel.de), a luxurious hotel that's linked to the famous Rocco Forte chain of European first-class and deluxe establishments, and is rated five stars by the government. Guests may enjoy the Charles's own gardens. Its spacious and beautifully furnished bedrooms open onto the Alps in the distance. Near the Hauptbahnhof (the city's main railway station), Sofitel Munich Bayerpost (tel. 089/599480; www.sofitel.com) now graces the Munich skyline. It combines a state-of-the-art modernity with a lot of architectural overtures to yesterday, including Wilhelminian architecture. Its beautifully furnished bedrooms use natural materials and tasteful fabrics.

Media exposure has led to the discovery of a gem of a hotel in the suburb of Nymphenburg, near the famous palace. It's the TOP Hotel Erzgiesserei Europe (tel. 089/12-68-20; www.topinternational.com), a 5-minute U-Bahn ride from the center of Munich. It's a first-class hotel with sleekly modern and comfortable bedrooms, plus an on-site first-class restaurant where tables overflow into a garden courtyard in summer. Also in Nymphenburg, Laimer Hof (tel. 089/17-80-38-0; www.laimerhof.de), is a restored Renaissance villa in a parklike setting. It was turned into a hotel in 1937, but had grown shabby until an energetic young couple took it over and completely modernized it while keeping its traditional overlay.

To the north of the center in the Schwabing district, Renner Hotel Carlton (tel. 089/28-20-61; www.carlton-garni.de) is the showcase of an emerging little hotel chain that maintains comfortable and well-furnished bedrooms. If this one is full, there are two other members of the chain, the Savoy and Antare, both of which lie nearby and are comparably priced.

Munich Restaurants

The Bavarian capital still competes with Berlin for the title of culinary capital of Germany.

Seven Fish (tel. 089/23-00-02-19) has emerged as one of the best seafood restaurants of Munich, lying near the open-air market, Viktualienmarkt. Its menu is based on the freshest and best catches of the day. The menu, overseen by two Greek brothers, even includes sushi.

Bier- und Oktoberfest Museum (tel. 089/2423-1607) has opened as an offbeat choice for dining. You're given a tour, a Bavarian snack, and a glass of beer for only 4€ ($6.40). Or else you can stick around and enjoy one of the most authentic Bavarian dinners in town. In genuine Bavarian style, the staff even serves Schmaltz (chicken fat) to spread over your rye bread.

One of the most innovative restaurants in town is G-Munich (tel. 089/7474-7999), where some of the most original dishes are served. Feast on such delights as glazed quail with a purée of green olives and caper-flavored butter or a divine gooseliver crème brûlée.

The main restaurant at the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski München has been transformed into the Restaurant Vue Maximilian (tel. 089/2125-0), serving some of the most refined French and international cuisine in Munich. Most of the haute cuisine follows classic French tradition, but the chefs show their range by adding Asian inspirations, including recipes from Thailand.

In 1898, the building housing Lutter & Wegner (tel. 089/54-59-49-0) was the headquarters of an association of artists. Today a new restaurant has been installed, a branch of a chain well known in Germany and Austria for its savory international and Mediterranean cuisine. Take your choice of the romantically decorated dining rooms and enjoy such dishes as rack of veal stuffed with pesto and served with a fresh tomato ragout.

The leading vegan restaurant of Munich is Saf im Zerwirk (tel. 089/2323-9191), which has been installed in a building that is more than 700 years old. Organic produce -- but, of course -- is used at this establishment where food is cooked at a very low temperature to preserve flavor and nutrition. The location is around the corner from the famed Hofbräuhaus.

Munich Attractions

Munich is a new city built over the old (after World War II), and it's filled with both ancient and modern treasures.

The Jüdisches Museum München has moved to a new location at St. Jakobsplatz (tel. 089/233-96096). The venue has better lighting on its three exhibition floors and a more sophisticated arrangement of its cherished artifacts.

ZAM, the name of a single museum that housed a series of galleries, ranging from a chamber pot museum to an Easter bunny museum, has regrettably closed. Too bad, as it was one of the most unusual museums in Germany.

Munich Shopping

Let's face it: Berlin is still the shopping mecca of Germany. But the city of Munich gives it close competition.

The best place to shop for Bavarian arts and crafts is now the aptly named Bavarian Association of Arts and Crafts (tel. 089/29-01-47-0), where objects ranging from pewter to handicrafts are selected from top-rated artisans throughout the province. Some Bavarians go here just to shop for charming Christmas decorations.

Now that the milkmaid-style dress, the dirndl, is making a comeback, naturally a retail chain has opened with six outlets around Munich. Wies'n Tracht & mehr (no phone) sells both new and vintage forms of this dress.

Munich After Dark

Munich nightlife continues to bloom as faded flowers of yesterday disappear.

"Anything can happen," management promises, and it does at Café am Hochhaus (tel. 089/890-581-52), featuring boogie and soulful reggae, retro, disco, even gay T-dances. Another cafe, Café Puck (tel. 089/280-22-80), has become a rendezvous for students and artists, and it's also a restaurant. Many patrons come in at any time of the day or night for a "big American breakfast."

The Cuban craze sweeping Europe has also hit Munich with the opening of the spicy Havana Club (tel. 089/291884), which is a lively singles bar fueled by rum-based drinks. Designers and artists have discovered Holy Home (tel. 089/2014546), a little hideaway bar attracting a crowd in their 20s and 30s who listen to DJs spin their best.

Homesick ex-pat Aussies and Irish head for Killians Irish Pub/Ned Kelly's Australian Bar (tel. 089/24219899) for a taste of home brew, live music, broadcasts of sports events, and food like dear ol' mum cooked it.

Side Trips from Munich

Within an hour's drive of Munich, you can visit everything from the former concentration camp at Dachau to mountains, lakes, spas, and medieval towns.

Before Dachau became one of the most notorious concentration camps in world history, it was a beloved artists' town. Many visitors are not only visiting the Nazi concentration camp but also sticking around to enjoy some of the charms of the historic Old Town. You can visit Schloss Dachau, a hilltop Renaissance castle, and any number of art galleries that are opening up.

The Bavarian Alps -- Stretching from Munich to the Austrian border, the fir-clad Bavarian Alps is a land of summer flowers, shimmering Alpine lakes, and half-timbered houses.

The most romantic place to stay in Garmisch-Partenkirch, the chief resort, is a faux English manor house that has opened in the outskirts. Das Kranzbach (tel. 08823/92-800-0; www.daskranzbach.de) is a swanky retreat reached by an old private toll road built by King Ludwig II. Today the elegant property boasts one of the finest spas in the area, along with beautifully decorated bedrooms opening onto scenic views.