Attractions

Nafplion is a stroller's delight. One of the great pleasures here is to wander with no particular destination through parks (Kolokotronis and Kapodistrias parks run into each other), up and down the stepped side streets, and along the harbor, discovering unexpected Turkish fountains, small churches, and tempting cafes. Don't make the mistake of ending your harborside stroll when you come to the last of the large seaside cafes facing the miniature island fortress known as the Bourtzi. If you continue on, you can watch fishing boats putting in at the pier, explore several cliffside chapels, and wind your way past the small beach on a cliffside path under the Acronafplia. Nafplion is so small that you can't get seriously lost, so have fun exploring. Below are some suggestions on how to take in the official sights after you've had your initial stroll.

Acronafplia & Palamidi

Nafplion's two massive fortifications, the Acronafplia and the Palamidi, dominate the skyline and, as usual with fortresses, are most impressive when seen from afar. It's a very stiff climb to either fortress, and you may prefer to take a taxi up (around 6€) and walk back down.

As you'll realize when you visit these fortresses, whoever held the heights here could keep a close watch on both the gulf and the plain of Argos. The Greeks began to fortify Acronafplia and Palamidi, and the Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, Franks, and Turks added a wall here and a turret there, with the results you see today. If you're here in the summer, try to visit the fortresses in the relative cool of either morning or evening; the sunsets are usually spectacular. If you're in Nafplion during the June Music Festival, find out if any evening concerts are being held at the Palamidi, which is open in summer, Monday through Friday from 8am to 7pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 8am to 3pm; in winter, hours are daily from 8am to 3pm. Admission is 3€.

If you're not in the mood to climb the 800-plus steps from Polyzoidhou Street to the summit of Palamidi, you can take a taxi up and then walk down. The Venetians spent 3 years building the Palamidi, only to be conquered the next year by the Turks in 1715. You'll enter the fortress the way the Turkish attackers did, through the main gate to the east. Once inside, you can trace the course of the massive wall that encircled the entire summit and wander through the considerable remains of the five defense fortresses that failed to stop the Turkish attack. Kolokotronis, the hero of the Greek War of Independence who later tried to subvert the new nation and seize power for himself, was held prisoner for 20 months in Fort Miltiades, the structure to your right as you enter the Palamidi.

Compared to huffing and puffing up all those steps to the Palamadi, the ascent of Acronafplia (not enclosed and no charge) can be a leisurely -- if always higher! -- stroll through the upper city. If this still seems like work, you can either take a taxi up or take the elevator that runs from Koustouros Street up through the cliffside and deposits you on the summit at the Nafplia Palace Hotel.

If you're walking, follow signs in the lower town to the Church of St. Spyridon; one wall has the mark left by one of the bullets fired when Ioannis Kapodistrias, the first governor of modern Greece, was assassinated here in 1831. From there, continue up to the Catholic Church of the Transfiguration, a fitting symbol of Nafplion's vexed history. Built by the Venetians, it was converted into a mosque by the Turks, and then reconsecrated as a church after the War of Independence. Inside, an ornamental doorway has an inscription listing philhellenes who died for Greece, including nephews of both Lord Byron and George Washington. Greece's first king, young Otto of Bavaria, worshiped here wearing the Greek national costume, known as the foustanella (short pleated skirt for men), which he adopted to show solidarity with his new subjects. Ironically, while Otto wore his foustanella, the more fashion-conscious of his subjects abandoned their Greek costumes and copied the Western clothes worn by most members of Otto's court.

As you continue to climb toward Acronafplia, you may see several carvings of the winged lion that was the symbol of St. Mark, the protector of Venice. The most important fortifications on Acronafplia were built during the first (1388-1540) and second (1686-1715) Venetian occupations. In the days before the birth of today's Greek historical preservation movement, both the Xenia and the Xenia Palace Hotels were built over the fortifications, one reason that the original structures have been obscured.

The Bourtzi

Everyone's favorite fortress -- and perhaps the only one to evoke squeals of "how cute" from tourists -- the miniature Bourtzi Fortress was built by Venetians in the 15th century to guard the entrance to Nafplion's harbor. Since then, it's had a checkered career, serving as a home for retired executioners in the 19th century and as a small hotel in the 20th century. Small boats ply back and forth between the harbor and the Bourtzi (from 6€ round-trip); usually, you can stay as long as you wish, explore, and return with the same or a different boat. Take something to drink and a snack with you, as the small cafe here is often closed. On hot summer days, the shadeless, often-crowded Bourtzi is much more pleasant to look at from a harborside cafe than to visit.

Take a Dip -- The best place to swim is at Arvanitia Beach beneath the Palamidi. With the Bourtzi on your right, walk south along the quay until you come to the beach, which has changing facilities and chairs and great views of the sunset.

Museums

Keep an eye out in museums, galleries, and hotels for the elusive brochure Artspotting Nafplion, billed as a "guide to the best art spots in Nafplion," which lists local museums, galleries, and shops. Two of the best are the Nafplion Art Gallery, 5 Vassileos Alexandrou St. (tel. 27520/25-385), which features the work of Greek and foreign artists, and the Art Shop, 14 Ipsilandou St. (tel. 27520/29-546), featuring clothing, jewelry, toys and books by Greek and foreign artists.