You may want to begin with a stroll through the streets and alleys of Nice's historic core. The densest concentrations of boutiques are along rue Masséna, place Magenta, avenue Jean-Médecin, rue de Verdun, and rue Paradis, and on the streets around them. A shop of note is Gigi, 10 rue de la Liberté (tel. 04-93-87-81-78), which sells sophisticated clothing for women.
Opened in 1949 by Joseph Fuchs, the grandfather of the present English-speaking owners, the Confiserie Florian du Vieux-Nice, 14 quai Papacino (tel. 04-93-55-43-50), is near the Old Port. Their specialty is glazed fruit crystallized in sugar or artfully arranged into chocolates. Look for exotic jams (rose-petal preserves, mandarin marmalade), candied violets, verbena leaves, and rosebuds, as well as a free recipe leaflet. One of the oldest chocolatiers in Nice, Confiserie Auer, 7 rue St-François-de-Paule, near the opera house (tel. 04-93-85-77-98; www.maison-auer.com), was established in 1820. Since then, few of the original decorative accessories have changed. The shop specializes in chocolates, candies, and fruits confits, the signature Provençal goodies.
Façonnable, 7-9 rue Paradis (tel. 04-93-87-88-80; www.faconnable.com), is the original site of a chain with several hundred branches around the world. This is one of the largest, with a wide range of men's suits, raincoats, overcoats, sportswear, and jeans. The look is youthful and conservatively stylish, and cut for French bodies. An outlet for women's clothing and sportswear (Façonnable Sport) and the main line of Façonnable women's wear (Façonnable Femmes) is across the street at 10 rue Paradis (tel. 04-93-88-06-97).
If you're thinking of indulging in a Provençale pique-nique, Nicola Alziari, 318 bd. Madeleine (tel. 04-93-44-45-12), will provide everything from olives, anchovies, and pistous to aiolis and tapenades. It's one of Nice's oldest purveyors of olive oil, with a house brand that comes in two strengths: a light version that aficionados claim is vaguely perfumed with Provence, and a stronger version suited to the earthy flavors and robust ingredients of a Provençal winter. Also for sale are objects crafted from olive wood.
For arts and crafts, head to the Atelier Contre-Jour, 3 rue du Pont Vieux (tel. 04-93-80-20-50). It carries painted-wood handicrafts, including picture frames; painted furniture; and silk lampshades, as well as decorative posters. Plat Jérôme, 34 rue Centrale (tel. 04-93-97-53-54), stocks varnished pottery. Many artists' studios and galleries are on side streets near the cathedral in the old town.
La Couqueto, 8 rue St-François-de-Paule (tel. 04-93-80-90-30), sells santons, the traditional Provençal figurines. The best selection of Provençal fabrics is at Le Chandelier, 7 rue de la Boucherie (tel. 04-93-85-85-19), where you'll see designs by two of the region's best-known producers of cloth, Les Olivades and Valdrôme.
In addition to the flower market, Marché aux Fleurs, the main flea market, Marché à la Brocante, also at cours Saleya, takes place Monday 8am to 5pm. Another flea market on the port, Les Puces de Nice, place Robilante, is open Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 6pm.
