Le Tire Bouchon ("The Corkscrew")

Set in the heart of the old city, this is a cozy restaurant with a bordeaux-tinged color scheme, two dining rooms, an old-fashioned decor, and an allegiance to the rich and hearty cuisine of France's southwest. The menu reflects the kind of conservative cuisine that hasn't changed very much since the days when its clients were children. The best examples include onion soup with a crusty top, cassoulet (the earthy pork-and-bean stew of Toulouse -- but only in winter), confit of duckling, curried crayfish and monkfish, foie gras and pâté of duck with figs and hazelnuts, and various forms of fish. Many local residents have been dining here regularly since the place was established in 1991.

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