Attractions

The Old Northern Highway is in rough shape. The narrow, paved road is in dire need of repair; it's riddled with potholes and washed out in many sections. Still, it is the only route to one major attraction and one unique resort. Aside from these two places, there's not much else along this highway, except for a few tiny communities and the occasional roadside restaurant or bar. To get here, take Freetown Road out of Belize City to connect with the Northern Highway. The turnoff to the Old Northern Highway is to the right just past Sand Hill; watch for signs for Altun Ha and Maruba Resort Jungle Spa.

Altun Ha

Altun Ha is a small, well-preserved Mayan ruin. Only a few of the most imposing temples, tombs, and pyramids have been uncovered and rebuilt; hundreds more lie under the jungle foliage. Still, there are two large central plazas surrounded by midsize pyramids and mounds, as well as the beginnings of the excavation of residential areas. While nowhere near as extensive as some other sites, the quality and detail of the excavation and restoration at Altun Ha is admirable. Sections of different structures have been left in various states of repair and restoration, which gives a good sense of the process involved. Moreover, while the climb to the top of the tallest pyramids here is rather easy by Mayan standards, the views are still wonderful. The site was named after the village in which it's situated -- Rockstone Pond, the literal Mayan translation meaning "stone water." At the back of the site, behind Plaza B, is the namesake pond. Archaeologists theorize that the pond is an example of a pre-Columbian waterworks project and a demonstration of the ingenuity of Mayan engineering.

Despite its somewhat diminutive size, Altun Ha was a major trade and ceremonial center. In its prime, during the Classic Period, Altun Ha supported a population of about 10,000. Many jade, pearl, and obsidian artifacts have been discovered here, including the unique jade-head sculpture of Kinich Ahau (the Mayan sun god), the largest well-carved jade from the Mayan era. Today, it's kept in a bank vault in Belmopan, out of public view, although you can see a replica at the Museum of Belize. Some of the pieces found here show a direct link the great Mexican city of Teotihuacán.

The largest (though not the tallest) temple here is the Temple of the Masonry Altars, which fronts Plaza B. It has been well restored, and the pathway to the top is well maintained and even features handrails. However, if you're fairly fit and not acrophobic, I recommend you climb the almost entirely unrestored Temple A-6, which is truly the tallest building here. A climb to the top of Temple A-6 affords an excellent panorama of the entire site. Be careful climbing down; the Mayans were a society run by priests and holy men, not lawyers. A more litigious society would have never permitted the construction of such steep and treacherous stairways.

The site is open daily from 9am to 5pm. Admission is BZ$10 (US$5) for adults, free for children under 12. There is no public transportation to Altun Ha, so you'll need to take a tour, a taxi, your own wheels, or hitchhike. If you're driving, Altun Ha is located about 30 miles (48km) north of Belize City on the Northern Highway. Once you're on the Old Northern Highway, it's 11 miles (17km) to the Altun Ha road. From the highway, it's another bumpy 2 1/4 miles (4km) to the ruins.

Half-day tours to Altun Ha from Belize City cost between BZ$80 and BZ$120 (US$40-US$60). Full-day tours can be combined with visits to Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary or the Community Baboon Sanctuary and should run between BZ$150 and BZ$240 (US$75-US$120). Many of the tours include lunch and an optional spa treatment at Maruba Resort Jungle Spa.

En Route North: Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary

33 miles (53km) NW of Belize City

Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary is a swampy lowland that is home to over 250 resident species of birds and serves as a resting spot for scores of migratory species. During a visit here you are sure to spot any number of interesting water birds, including kites, hawks, ducks, grebes, pelicans, ospreys, egrets, and herons. However, the preserve was established primarily to protect Belize's main nesting site of the endangered jabiru stork, the largest bird in the Western Hemisphere. The jabirus arrive every November and pass the winter in these warm lowland climes. The jabiru is an impressive bird, standing nearly 5 feet (1.5m) tall, with a wingspan that can reach up to 12 feet (3.6m). Crooked Tree has rapidly become known as an excellent place to spot other endangered wildlife as well. Crocodiles, iguanas, coati-mundi, and howler monkeys are all frequently sighted. There are six major lagoons here connected by a series of creeks, rivers, and wetlands.

The best way to explore the preserve is by dugout canoe. Ask in town or at the sanctuary's visitor's center and administrative building for a local who will paddle you around in a dugout for a few hours. The going rate is around BZ$16 to BZ$24 (US$8-US$12) per person for a 2- to 3-hour paddle tour of the lagoons. Or, if you're in the mood for a little exercise, Bird's Eye View Lodge offers canoe rental for BZ$10 (US$5) per person per hour. All visitors must first register at the visitor's center and pay the BZ$8 (US$4) admission fee. The Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary was set up and is still administered by the Belize Audubon Society (tel. 223-5004).

If you'd like to spend the night, accommodations can be arranged with a local family for around BZ$20 to BZ$40 (US$10-US$20), double occupancy. Meals should run you an additional BZ$20 to BZ$40 (US$10-US$20) per person per day. Or, if you want to stay in a comfortable lodge right on the edge of a lagoon, check out the Bird's Eye View Lodge (tel. 203-2040; www.birdseyeviewlodge.com), where a double costs between BZ$80 and BZ$160 (US$40-US$80).

Crooked Tree is located 33 miles (53km) northwest of Belize City. If you are driving, head up the Northern Highway and watch for the turnoff to Crooked Tree. From the turnoff, it's another 3 miles (5km) on a well-graded dirt road.

Direct buses leave for Crooked Tree Village from the main bus terminal on West Collet Canal Street in Belize City Monday through Friday at 4pm, returning at 6am the following day. Jex bus company leaves from the bus terminal on Regent Street West in Belize City on Saturday at 11am. Or catch a ride to Crooked Tree with a Jex bus that departs from Belize City at Pound Yard Bridge, Monday through Friday at 4:30 and 5:15pm, and leaves Crooked Tree for Belize City at 6:30 and 7am. The fare is BZ$5 (US$2.50). Alternately, you can take any bus heading to Orange Walk Town, Corozal, or the northern border and ask to be dropped off at the entrance to Crooked Tree. From here you'll have to walk or hitchhike, or get real lucky and find a cab patrolling around.

Half-day tours to Crooked Tree cost between BZ$80 and BZ$100 (US$40-US$50). A full-day trip combining Crooked Tree and Altun Ha, including transportation, guide, and lunch, should cost between BZ$150 and BZ$240 (US$75-US$120).