Things To Do in Northern Belize

The Philip Goldson Highway runs from Belize City to the Mexican border town of Chetumal, and is distinct from the Old Northern Highway, a roughly paved road riddled with potholes and gravel after the first 20km (12 miles) of peace when coming from the south. Still, it is the only route to one major attraction and one unique resort. Aside from these two places, there’s not much else along this highway, save for a few tiny communities and the occasional roadside restaurant or bar. To get here, take Freetown Road out of Belize City to connect with the Philip Goldson Highway. The turnoff to the Old Northern Highway is to the right just past Sand Hill; watch for signs for Altun Ha, Belize Boutique Resort and Spa and the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary.

If you’d like to spend the night, a simple bed can be found for BZ$80-BZ$100 a night at Tillett's Village Lodge (tel. 671-7100; www.tillettvillage.com), a legacy of Sam Tillett, one of the country's great naturalists. For a more comfortable lodge right on the edge of a lagoon, check out the Bird’s Eye View Lodge  (tel. 225-7027; www.birdseyeviewbelize.com), where a double costs between BZ$200 and BZ$300 during the high season. For a bit more, you could also stay at the Belize Boutique Hotel and Spa.

Jex & Sons (tel. 225-7017) direct buses leave for Crooked Tree Village Monday through Saturday from a bus terminal on Regent Street West and West Canal Street in Belize City at 10:50am; and from a terminal at the Save-U Plaza at the corner of the highway and Central American Boulevard at 5:15pm. The bus to Belize City leaves Crooked Tree at 6:30am. The fare is BZ$7 each way. Alternatively, you can take any bus heading to Orange Walk Town, Corozal, or the northern border and ask to be dropped off at the entrance to Crooked Tree. From here you’ll have to walk or hitchhike, or get really lucky and find a cab patrolling around. If you’re staying at a hotel in the village, they will usually pick you up.

Half-day tours to Crooked Tree from Belize City or the northern cayes cost between BZ$100 and BZ$200. A full-day trip combining Crooked Tree and Altun Ha, including transportation, guide, and lunch, should cost between BZ$200 and BZ$310.