Biking

For the serious cyclist, there are two great routes in Norway: the North Sea Cycleway and the Old Navvy Road. Each of them is only partially paved. The coastal route is much easier, whereas the Old Navvy Road runs across open mountains, passing through pastures and meadows en route down to the nearest fjord. Pick up detailed maps of routes and how to reach them in tourist offices throughout Norway.

Since the Old Navvy Road follows the Bergen-Oslo train tracks for most of the way, the usual starting point is Haugastøl, known for its herring and jazz.

The North Sea Cycleway stretches for 296km (184 miles) and is mostly rural, with woodland, moors, and crags, passing many a meadow. It runs through such ports as Flekkefjord and Egersund, passing such larger towns as Sandnes and Stavanger.

The Old Navvy Road, called Rallarvegen in Norwegian, was built from 1895 to 1902, starting in the tree-lined east and climbing into the open mountains, with panoramic views of snow-covered slopes; high-altitude, incredibly blue lakes; and the Hardangerjøkulen glacier. The most dramatic point along the route is from Vatnahalsen, where the road descends the 21 hairpin bends of Myrdalskleiva, continuing down the Flamsdal Valley to Flåm. The road has been a cycle track since the 1970s.

Bike rentals abound in Norway. Inquire at your hotel or the local tourist office. The Norwegian Mountain Touring Association provides inexpensive lodging for those on overnight bike trips. For suggestions on tours, maps, and brochures, contact Den Rustne Eike, Vestbaneplassen 2, N-0458 Oslo (tel. 22-44-18-80; www.denrustneeike.no). They can arrange guided tours in the Oslo area and elsewhere in Norway. Tours last from 3 hours to 14 days.

In July and August, 7-day bike trips run through the Lofoten Islands. They offer moderately rolling terrain, dramatic scenery, traditional rorbuer (fishing cottage) lodging, and hearty regional cuisine. Prices begin at 16,887NOK ($2,598/£1,388). Tours are offered by Backroads (tel. 800/GO-ACTIVE; www.backroads.com).

To cycle through the splendors of Norway, you can join Britain's oldest (1878) and largest association of bicycle riders, the Cyclists' Touring Club, Cotterell House, 69 Meadrow, Godalming, Surrey GU7 3HS (tel. 0870/873-0060; www.ctc.org.uk). The fees for membership start at £11 ($20), which includes information, maps, a subscription to a newsletter packed with practical information and morale boosters, plus recommended cycling routes through virtually every country in Europe. The organization's knowledge of scenic routes is especially comprehensive. Membership can be arranged over the phone with a credit card.

One of the best bets for mountain biking is the Setesdal region, with its many small roads and forest trails. Setesdal Rafting Centre (tel. 37-93-11-77; www.troll-mountain.no), 7km (4 1/4 miles) north from Evje on the main road (Rte. 9), is an expert in the area, offering both guided trips and bikes for rent with helmets from mid-April to late October.

The Øyer mountains are also excellent for cycling, and the scenery is splendid. For more information, including suggested cycle tours in the Øyer mountains, consult the Øyer Tourist Office (tel. 61-27-70-00), and rent bikes from Hafjellsporten Sports (tel. 61-27-70-93).