Suggested Itineraries

Lights Out: The Best of Nova Scotia in 1 Week

This tour of my favorite Maritime Province takes in lighthouses, quaint villages, a surprisingly vibrant city, and dramatic headlands plunging to the ocean. Begin in Yarmouth, landing point for the ferry from Bar Harbor, Maine.

Day 1: The Southernmost Coast

Spend an hour in Yarmouth, a compact port city just a few hours' ferry ride from Portland or Bar Harbor, Maine. It offers a few diversions, such as a Firefighters' Museum and a French-speaking region just a short drive to the west. It's worth a half-day. I also like to drive the coastline just west of the city, which harbors several relatively unknown (thus empty) beaches.

Drive 100km (62 miles) east along Route 103, exiting the main highway to reach Shelburne. This compact little town has a fine historic complex with water views, a cooper, boatbuilders, and a few small museums. There's also a more commercial main street and one of my favorite fish-and-chips stands in eastern Canada, the aptly named Mr. Fish.

Continue another 120km (75 miles) east along Route 103 to the exit for Route 324; exit and continue about 10km (6 1/4 miles) east to

Days 2-4: Lunenburg and Mahone Bay

These cute twin towns, separated by just a 15-minute drive, are easily worth 2 to 3 nights. (You'll arrive late on the first day, anyway.) You can explore remote peninsulas -- preferably by bike -- hit the links, visit a great ocean museum, or book a kayak tour. Some of the province's better bed-and-breakfasts are tucked into these towns, too. I like to time my visit to coincide with one of the summertime fisherman's, arts, or music festivals.

During your 3 days in the region, be sure to follow Route 3 about 10km (6 1/4 miles) northeast of Mahone Bay to Chester. This small port town is New England-cute, with a scenic, first-rate golf course, a little summer theater company, a handful of restaurants, and a ferry service to nearby Tancook Island. (If you take the ferry, just be sure to get a schedule so you don't miss the last boat back.) It's surely worth a couple hours.

From Lunenburg, Mahone Bay, or Chester, head northeast along Route 3 or Route 103 about 24km (15 miles) to the turnoff for Route 333.

Days 5-7: The Halifax Region

Down Route 333 about 24km (15 miles) lies Peggy's Cove. This famously picturesque village features a lighthouse, surf crashing on rocks, a somber memorial to a passenger plane crash, and more cute souvenirs than you can shake a stick at. Sure, you can take a tour bus from Halifax, but why not just sample it on the way up? It's worth an hour or two.

From Peggy's Cove, backtrack 24km (15 miles) to the main highway, then continue north about 24km (15 miles) along Route 103 to Halifax. This is Nova Scotia's crown jewel, a place where live bands play nightly, buskers perform in the streets, and there's plenty of grog and museum-going to be had. It's not a huge place, and you'll quickly have covered all of it, but the lodging and dining are good enough that it's worth several nights. Be sure to explore the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, especially for the Titanic artifacts, and Pier 21, for a look at the immigrant experience in eastern Canada. Or just wander up and down Spring Garden Road and back and forth along Barrington Street, hunting for brewpubs, record shops, and old buildings.

Bored with the bright lights? Head for a remote beach down a nearby peninsula, such as Crystal Crescent Beach; there are plenty, but you'll need a map to find the way. And roads are a bit rough on the suspension.

From here, rise early and you can speed back down the highway south to Yarmouth in time to catch your ferry back to Maine. Be sure not to dally, though -- the 338km (210-mile) drive takes more than 3 hours.