Active Pursuits

Beaches

The most idyllic sands are at the often-overcrowded Mallard's Beach, in the center of Ocho Rios, and are shared by hotel guests and cruise ship passengers. Locals may steer you to the white sands of Turtle Beach in the center, between the Renaissance Jamaica Grande and Club Jamaica. It's smaller, more desirable, and not as overcrowded as Mallard's.

The most frequented (and to be avoided when cruise ships are in port) is Dunn's River Beach, located below the famous falls. Another great spot is Jamaica Grande's Beach, which is open to the public. Parasailing is a favorite sport here.

Many exhibitionist couples check into the famous but pricey Couples Resort, which is known for its private au naturel island.

Our favorite is none of the above. We always follow the trail of 007 and head for James Bond Beach (tel. 876/726-1630), east of Ocho Rios at Oracabessa Beach. Entrepreneur Chris Blackwell reopened writer Ian Fleming's former home, Goldeneye. For $5 adults, $3 children, non-guests enjoy it any day except Monday.

Puerto Seco Beach lies on the eastern side of Discovery Bay, just an 8km (5-mile) drive west of Runaway Bay. On the far western side of the bay is its major attraction, Columbus Park Museum. Jamaicans who live in the hills nearby flock here on Sundays for a jivin' good time. The smoke from jerk chicken and a few ganja smokers fills the air, as do the sounds of Bob Marley and all his dozens of reggae imitators.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

Rafting On The White River -- You can arrange to go river rafting down the White River to the east of Ocho Rios, a 45-minute drift that takes you down the largest river in the area. The trip is one of the finer ways to spend a day in Ocho Rios when you tire of the beach. You glide along the banks of the river on a 9m (30-ft.) bamboo raft built for two, experiencing the rapids and looking at the lush growth. Halfway down the river you stop at the Jungle Bar for lunch and reggae music. The cost is $50 per person, including the services of a guide. To reach the site, head east from Ocho Rios to the White River Bridge, a distance of 5km (3 miles). Rafting is possible daily from 8:30am to 4:30pm. Call tel. 876/974-2527 for more information.

Playing With The Dolphins -- One of the most-visited attractions in Ocho Rios, Dolphin Cove, North Coast Highway (tel. 876/974-5335; www.dolphincovejamaica.com), attracts thousands of participants from cruise ships every month. Nestled among the seafronting rocks and low cliffs of a location 1.6km (1 mile) west of the center of Ocho Rios is an eco-sensitive series of stone and wire marine pens that are the home to about 16 dolphins. Each of them was caught, usually in fishing nets, off the coast of Mexico, and brought here after months of testing and training at enormous expense, for the amusement of their human counterparts. The headquarters of the venue is a 1950s, lemon-colored villa that functioned for years as the private home of the attraction's Jamaica-born owners, the Burrowes family. Check the photos in the building's entrance. At press time, two pens (soon to be expanded to incorporate several more) contain colonies of apparently happy and healthy dolphins that cavort, jump in the air, and swallow fish (mostly mackerel and herring imported from the cold waters of Canada) on a schedule that's noted below. Know in advance, however, that there's a lot more on-site than just a view of some sea mammals. The entire 2.8-hectare (7-acre) site has been configured as a self-contained beach and entertainment center that can and often does shelter and amuse cruise ship passengers throughout their ship's stopover in Ocho Rios. Snorkeling and swimming are available from a narrow beachfront. Immediately adjacent is a waterfall cascading directly into the sea from the Chico River. A restaurant features a lunchtime buffet, served daily from noon to 3pm, costing $12 per person. There is also transport in a glass-bottomed boat (rides cost $15 per person for a 30-minute float over the reefs). You have unlimited access to nature trails that meander through a jungle landscape that has been enhanced with the presence of caged birds, caged iguanas, and large yellow boa constrictors held in check by their handlers.

If the idea of swimming with the dolphins appeals to you, you should reserve a place in advance, participate in a 30-minute orientation lecture, put on a life preserver, and then get ready to pet, play with, and in some cases, get pushed or pulled around the watery pen by a well-trained marine mammal.

Dolphin shows are presented daily at 9:30am, 11:30am, 1:30pm, and 3:30pm. General admission to the compound costs $19 per person. Enhancements to the general admission cost are noted as follows, and in every case, includes general admission to the compound: "Touch the Dolphins" from a seat on the pier costs $45 per person; a one-on-one encounter in the water with a dolphin goes for $99 per person; and a two-on-one encounter whereby one swimmer will be pulled along the surface of the water while he/she holds their dorsal fins costs $175 per person. No children under 8 are allowed in the water with the dolphins.

Golf -- SuperClubs Runaway Golf Club, at Runaway Bay near Ocho Rios on the North Coast (tel. 876/973-7319), charges no fee to guests who stay at any SuperClubs. For nonguests, the price is $80 year-round. Carts cost $35 for 18 holes, club rentals are $14 for 18 holes.

Sandals Golf & Country Club (tel. 876/975-0119), a 15-minute ride from the center of the resort, is a 5,944m (19,500-ft.) course known for its panoramic scenery. Rolling terrain, lush vegetation, and flowers and fruit trees dominate the 48-hectare (120-acre) course; a putting green and driving range are available as well. Sandals guests play free; nonguests pay $70 for 9 holes or $100 for 18 holes.

Horseback Riding -- Renegade Stables, Galina, Oracabessa (tel. 876/994-0135), is a stable that's home to about 14 horses, half of which are available for riding lessons. A trail ride lasting between 60 and 90 minutes costs about $50 per person and incorporates equestrian jaunts along both forest trails and beaches.

Tennis -- Sandals Grande Ocho Rios Beach & Villa Resort, Main Street, Ocho Rios (tel. 876/974-1027), focuses more on tennis than any other resort in the area. It offers three clay-surface and three hard-surface courts, all lit for night play. Guests play free, day or night, but nonguests must call and make arrangements with the manager. Nonguests can purchase a day pass for $85 per person. The resort also sponsors twice-a-day clinics for both beginners and advanced players. Frequent guest tournaments are also staged, including handicapped doubles and mixed doubles.