Shopping

Ceramics shops line Via Duomo. They do cater to tourists, but you can still find some quite lovely pieces. You'll see the Michelangeli clan's wood sculptures, puppets, and stacked-contour reliefs all over town (the Osteria dell'Orso and Caffè Montanucci, recommended below, are decorated by them). Several Michelangeli showrooms (tel. 0763-342-660; www.michelangeli.it) line either side of Via Gualverio Michelangeli. One of the top antiques shops in town is Carlo & Cesare Bianchini, Via Duomo 37 (tel. 0763-344-626), which is filled with gorgeous pietra dure tabletops inlaid with semiprecious stones and marbles. But whether antique or made by a local artisan, they don't come cheap!