Le Grotte del Funaro

Dating from at least the 1100s, when the eponymous funaro (rope maker) had his workshop here, these grottoes carved into the tufa are filled with delectable smells of Umbrian cooking that draw Italians and tourists alike. The bruschette miste Umbre give their Tuscan crostini cousins a run for the money, but save room for the ombrichelli del Funaro (in a heavy sauce of tomatoes, sausage, artichokes, and mushrooms). For a sampling platter of the best grilled meats, order the grigliata mista (suckling pig, lamb, sausage, and yellow peppers) or a fish dish. The wine cellar offers just about every Orvieto Classico, including a good selection of half-bottles. After 10pm, the restaurant transforms into a piano bar; if you're here for lunch, retire outside to digest with the aid of the spectacular view from the terracelike piazza.

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