Tipica Trattoria Etrusca

Squirreled away under a 15th-century palace, this trattoria was a workers' lunch hangout early in the 20th century. The vaulted ceilings are divided by magnificent tufa arches with a massive column at the center and modern art on the walls. Start with umbrichelli dell'Orvietana (in a spicy hot tomato sauce mixed with pancetta) or the homemade gnocchi. The coniglio all'Etrusca (rabbit in a green sauce of herbs and spices) is the house special secondo, but don't rule out the abbacchio a scottadito (lamb so piping hot it'll "burn your fingers"). Desserts tend toward antique Orvietan sweets, including fresh ricotta dusted with sugar, cinnamon, and a sweet berry sauce. Ask to see the wine cellars, carved from the living tufa beneath.

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