Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Flights into Palermo from mainland Italy are obviously the fastest, most convenient links. Palermo's airport, Punta Raisi, is the island's largest, with the greatest number of flights; it's 31km (19 miles) west of Palermo on the A29 highway. In Palermo, you can call tel. 091-7020111 for information on domestic flights or international connections. Most likely you will be booked on a flight via Rome or Milan to your return destination.

From the airport, a local bus to Piazza Giulio Cesare (central train station) will cost 6€ ($7.80). A taxi is likely to charge at least 35€ ($46) -- or more, if the driver thinks he can get away with it. It's also possible to rent a car at the airport (all the major firms are represented) and drive into Palermo. Allow 20 to 30 minutes -- longer, if traffic is bad -- to get to the center of town.

By Train -- Palermo has good rail links with the rest of Sicily and also to Italy. After a 3-hour ride from Messina, on the northeast coast, you'll arrive at Palermo's main terminal, Stazione Centrale, at Piazza Giulio Cesare (tel. 892021), which lies on the eastern side of town and is linked to the center by a network of buses and taxis. The ticket office here is open daily from 6:45am to 8:40pm, with luggage storage available.

The train ride from Catania, in the east, takes 3 1/2 hours, with frequent departures throughout the day. From Trapani, in the west, it's a 2 1/2-hour ride, with 11 trains arriving daily.

It's also possible to book trains from major Italian cities. From Rome, it's an 11-hour trip, with seven trains arriving per day. From Naples, visitors usually take the ferry, though the 9-hour train ride is also an option (there are about five trains daily).

Intraisland train tickets are cheap: 12€ ($16) from Catania; 11€ ($14) from Messina; 8€ ($10) from Agrigento; and 10€ ($13) from Trapani.

The big rail haul from Rome costs 44€ to 80 € ($57-$104) one-way, depending on the train. For rail information for Sicily, or for Italy in general, call tel. 892021.

By Bus -- You can take a bus from Rome to Palermo, but we don't recommend it: The ride is long, dull, and boring. Palermo-bound buses leave Rome's Tiburtina station daily at 9:30pm; the trip takes 12 hours. For information, call SAIS, Via Balsamo 16 (tel. 091-6166028).

If you prefer bus travel, we suggest it for shorter hauls on the island itself. There are convenient links to major cities by SAIS, Via Balsamo 16 (tel. 091-6166028). From Messina, it takes 3 1/4 hours to reach Palermo; from Catania, 2 1/2 hours. Segesta also has bus links to Trapani in the west, a 2-hour trip. Cuffaro, Via Balsamo 13 (tel. 091-6161510), runs between Palermo and the city of Agrigento in 2 1/2 hours.

The Palermo bus stations along Via Balsamo are adjacent to the rail station. The trip from Rome costs 45€ ($59), but most bus fares on the island are inexpensive. For example, the cost from Trapani is 7.50€ ($9.75); from Agrigento, 7.70€ ($10); from Catania, 14€ ($18); and from Messina, 15€ ($20).

By Car -- Three autostrade (superhighways) link Palermo with the rest of Sicily. The most used routes are A19 from Catania and A20 from Messina. From the west, A29 comes in from Mazara del Vallo. In addition, two main highways link Palermo: SS113 from Trapani in the west or Messina in the east, and SS121 from Catania and Enna in the east. Palermo is cut off from mainland Italy. To reach it by car, you'll have to cross the Straits of Messina by ferries operated by FS, the state railway authority.

Once the ferry has landed at Messina, you'll still face a drive of 233km (145 miles) to Palermo. If you're planning to drive down from Naples or Rome, as many visitors do, prepare yourself for a long trip: 721km (448 miles) south from Naples, 934km (580 miles) south from Rome.

By Boat -- This is our favorite way to get here from mainland Italy, since we always visit Palermo from Naples. From Naples, the most convenient service over to Palermo is provided by SNAV (tel. 081-4285555). The ferry trip takes 11 hours and costs 50€ to 71€ ($65-$92) per person. A rival ferry is operated by Tirrenia Lines (tel. 892123), which takes 11 hours and costs 38€ to 90€ ($49-$117). Schedules vary depending on weather conditions, so always call on the day of departure even if you've already confirmed your reservation the day before. To call Tirrenia from abroad or from a cellphone, dial tel. 081-0171998.

Visitor Information

Tourist offices are located at strategic points, including the Palermo airport (tel. 091-591698) and the main train stations (tel. 091-6165914). The principal office is the Azienda Autonoma Turismo, Piazza Castelnuovo 34 (tel. 091-6058351), open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 2pm and 3 to 6pm. In July and August this office is also open on Saturday 9am to 1pm. When you stop in, ask for a good city map.

The Next Pocket Picked May Be Yours -- Palermo is home to some of the most skilled pickpockets on the Continent, so be especially alert. Don't flaunt jewelry, cameras, or wads of bills; women who carry handbags are particularly vulnerable to purse snatchers on Vespas. Park your car in a garage rather than on the street, and don't keep valuables inside. Police squads operate mobile centers throughout the town to help combat street crime.

Where Mafia Wannabes Get Street Smarts -- More and more foreigners are visiting at night, mainly to patronize some of the newly emerging restaurants -- but still keep your wits about you. It's relatively safe to visit during the day, but even then, try not to walk around alone. Leave your valuables back in the hotel safe, hang on to your wallet, and take a taxi to your destination. Finally, never wander down dark, deserted labyrinthine streets.

Getting Around

Parking is difficult in Palermo, and traffic is horrendous. There are treasures to be found here, but getting around to see them is more than difficult.

By Bus -- The modernized bus system, once you learn to work it, is the best means of getting around the attractions on the periphery of Palermo, such as Monreale or Mondello. Most central lines cross Via Maqueda and its parallel street Via Roma, going through the quadrants of the old town. Other buses run east and west along the major dividing street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

In the New Town, Piazza Verdi, with its landmark Teatro Massimo, is a major hub, as is Piazza Politeama.

A ride on a municipal bus costs 1.20€ ($1.55). For information, call AMAT, Via Borrelli 16 (tel. 848-800817). Most passengers buy their tickets at tabacchi (tobacco shops) before boarding.

A tourist bus called City Sightseeing begins and ends its circuit at the landmark Teatro Politeama (the Emerico Amari side). It stops at many major monuments, including the Duomo and the Royal Palace. From April to November 4 departures are daily at 9:30am; from November 5 to March 31, departures are at 10am. Tickets are sold on board; there are no advance reservations. The cost is 20€ ($26) per person. Children 11 and under are granted a 50% discount. For information, call tel. 091-589429.

By Taxi -- Getting around the inner core of Palermo by bus is very time-consuming and not easy, and driving a car around Palermo is a nightmare. In most cases, taxis are the best way to navigate the city center. Taxi stands are found at the main rail depot, at Piazza Verdi, at Piazza Indipendenza, and at Piazza Ruggero Séttimo, among other locations. The meter drops at 3.80€ ($4.95) and charges 2.55€ ($3.30) for the first 154m (505 ft.), plus .85€ ($1.10) per kilometer thereafter. If you can't find a taxi on the street, call tel. 091-513311.

If you can afford it, consider renting a taxi for the day to explore Palermo attractions; it will cost 70€ to 100€ ($91-$130). Most drivers speak only a few words of English, but somehow they manage. You can request an English-speaking driver; perhaps one will be available. For further information on taxi sightseeing, call tel. 091-512737.

On Foot -- Palermo is a city designed for walking, especially to the museums, monuments, and palaces in the medieval core. But walking is exhausting and not at all practical if you want to take in attractions on the city's periphery. To go outside the center, rely on the network of buses.

By Car -- Driving around Palermo can be done, but it is guaranteed to take years off your life. You may want to rent a car for side trips to places such as Monreale, however. Rentals can be arranged at airport desks or at offices within central Palermo. The major firms include Avis, Punta Raisi Airport (tel. 091-591684), and Via Francesco Crispi 115 (tel. 091-586940). There are two leading Italian car-rental firms: Maggiore (tel. 091-591681) is at the airport, with a branch at the Notarbartolo Railway Station (tel. 091-6810801); Sicily By Car (tel. 091-591250) is also at the airport, as well as at Via Stabile Mariano 6A (tel. 091-581045). Rates average from 65€ to 80€ ($85-$104) per day.

Then there's parking. Parking spaces are like gold in central Palermo. One of the most convenient garages is Garage Stazione Centrale (tel. 091-6168297), at the rail station, which charges 15€ ($20) per night (closed Sun). Two other convenient garages -- identified simply by the word GARAGE -- are at Via Stabile 10 (tel. 091-321667), charging 15€ ($20) per night, and at Piazza Oliva (tel. 091-325444), charging 20€ ($26) per night.

By Organized Tour -- The best tours are offered by CST (Compania Siciliana Turismo), 124 Via Emerico Amari. You can visit its office in person to discuss your interests and see what is available on any given day. CST arranges trips to such sights in Palermo as Monte Pellegrino or the Capuchin Catacombs, but they will also set up side trips to the Greek ruins at Segesta or day trips to western coastal towns such as Erice and Trapani. CST can be contacted by fax at 091-6197218 or by e-mail at cstmail@tin.it.