Attractions

Although relatively neglected by the casual visitor to Italy, Palermo is one of the great art cities of Italy. It may not be the equal of Venice or Florence, but it is a treasure nonetheless.

Down through the ages, writers have tried to capture Palermo's singular allure. Vincenzo Consolo, in his Strolling through Sicily, was overcome with the city's rich red earth "with springs of water where the palm grove rises tall and slender."

The oasis he wrote of is largely swept away today. In its place is one of the more difficult cities in southern Italy to explore. There's just too much traffic and pollution, and getting around in summer is an often dusty, humid affair, and even a risky one as you try to avoid cars, buses, and motor scooters.

Yet in spite of its difficulties, those willing to go to the trouble to uncover Palermo's hidden treasures will find much to appreciate here. In exploring Palermo, expect both sensuous sunshine and somewhat sinister shadows.

The Phoenicians were taken with the setting of Palermo way back in the 7th century B.C. They called it Ziz, which meant "flower." Palermo hasn't experienced a golden age since the 9th century, when, under Arab conquerors, the city became one of the great centers of Islamic culture in the Western world.

In 1072, the Normans arrived, bringing a style that merged with the local residents' into a kind of "Arabo-Norman" period.

All subsequent conquerors added their own particular style and alterations to the city's skyline, contributing new layers to Palermo's rich cultural heritage. Frederick II of Swabia arrived in 1212, ushering in a time of intellectual development and prosperity. Following the Swabians, the Angevins came -- until the Spaniards drove them out. In the 18th century, the Bourbons of Naples arrived, embellishing everything with their baroque touch -- not necessarily a good thing, as their architects and artisans destroyed much of the classical beauty.

Palermo spent most of the 20th century in decline, becoming a center for the notorious Mafia dons. It suffered severe damage in Allied air raids in 1943 and an earthquake in 1968. Much of its priceless medieval quarter has either been torn down or continues to decay.

Fortunately, matters are looking up these days, as more and more citizens are realizing what an artistic treasure Palermo is. Although not moving as fast as some preservationists would like, restoration is definitely in the air.

The Major Attractions

You should give Palermo at least 3 days, and even then you will have grasped only some of its highlights. If your time here is severely limited, you can attempt to visit the city's top 10 attractions in a very rushed 2 days. If you can't spare even that much time, and have only a day for the artistic monuments of Sicily's capital, here's how the top five sights rank on a very short A-list:

1. Palazzo dei Normanni/Cappella Palatina;

2. Galleria Regionale della Sicilia;

3. Museo Archeologico Regionale;

4. Catacombe dei Cappuccini; and

5. La Kalsa.

Let the Horse Lead the Way

Consider hiring one of the horse-drawn carriages that line up on the Via Maqueda at Piazza Pretoria. A 60-minute ride for up to four passengers costs 60€ ($72). In a style that's romantic, nostalgic, or corny, depending on your point of view, it will haul you around for a view of the city's street life and a fast overview, from the outside, of monumental Palermo. For more information on carriage tours from a driver we find cooperative, call tel. 380-5097646.