Getting There

By Plane

Flights into Palermo from mainland Italy are obviously the fastest, most convenient links. Palermo's airport, Punta Raisi, is the island's largest, with the greatest number of flights; it's 31km (19 miles) west of Palermo on the A29 highway. In Palermo, you can call tel. 091-7020111 for information on domestic flights or international connections. Most likely you will be booked on a flight via Rome or Milan to your return destination.

From the airport, a local bus to Piazza Giulio Cesare (central train station) will cost 6€ ($7.20). A taxi is likely to charge at least 35€ ($42) -- or more, if the driver thinks he can get away with it. It's also possible to rent a car at the airport (all the major firms are represented) and drive into Palermo. Allow 20 to 30 minutes -- longer, if traffic is bad -- to get to the center of town.

By Train

Palermo has good rail links with the rest of Sicily and also to Italy. After a 3-hour ride from Messina, on the northeast coast, you'll arrive at Palermo's main terminal, Stazione Centrale, at Piazza Giulio Cesare (tel. 091-6161844), which lies on the eastern side of town and is linked to the center by a network of buses and taxis. The ticket office here is open daily from 6:45am to 8:40pm, with luggage storage available.

The train ride from Catania, in the east, takes 3 1/2 hours, with frequent departures throughout the day. From Trapani, in the west, it's a 2 1/2-hour ride, with 11 trains arriving daily.

It's also possible to book trains from major Italian cities. From Rome, it's an 11-hour trip, with seven trains arriving per day. From Naples, visitors usually take the ferry, though the 9-hour train ride is also an option (there are about five trains daily).

Intra-island train tickets are cheap: 12€ ($14) from Catania; 11€ ($13) from Messina; 7€ ($8.40) from Agrigento; and 6.80€ ($8.15) from Trapani. The big rail haul from Rome costs 56€ ($67) one-way. For rail information for Sicily, or Italy in general, call tel. 892021.

By Bus

You can take a bus from Rome to Palermo, but we don't recommend it: The ride is long, dull, and boring. Palermo-bound buses leave Rome's Tiburtina station daily at 8:30am and 9pm; the trip takes 12 hours. For information, call Segesta, Via Balsamo 26 (tel. 091-6167919).

If you prefer bus travel, we suggest it for shorter hauls on the island itself. There are convenient links to major cities by SAIS, Via Balsamo 16 (tel. 091-6166028). From Messina, it takes 3 1/4 hours to reach Palermo; from Catania, 2 1/2 hours. Segesta also has bus links to Trapani in the west, a 2-hour trip. Cuffaro, Via Balsamo 13 (tel. 091-6161510), runs between Palermo and the city of Agrigento in 2 1/2 hours.

The Palermo bus stations along Via Balsamo are adjacent to the rail station. The trip from Rome costs 39€ ($47), but most bus fares on the island are inexpensive. For example, the cost from Trapani is 7.20€ ($8.65); from Agrigento, 7.20€ ($8.65); from Catania, 13€ ($16); and from Messina, 13€ ($16).

By Car

Three autostrade (superhighways) link Palermo with the rest of Sicily. The most used routes are A19 from Catania or A20 from Messina. From the west, A29 comes in from Mazara del Vallo. In addition, two main highways link Palermo: SS113 from Trapani in the west or Messina in the east, and SS121 from Catania and Enna in the east. Palermo is cutoff from mainland Italy. To reach it by car, you'll have to cross the Straits of Messina by ferries operated by FS, the state railway authority.

Once the ferry has landed at Messina, you'll still face a drive of 233km (145 miles) to Palermo. If you're planning to drive down from Naples or Rome, as many visitors do, prepare yourself for a long trip: 721km (448 miles) south from Naples, 934km (580 miles) south from Rome.

By Boat

This is our favorite way to get here from mainland Italy, since we always visit Palermo from Naples. From Naples, the most convenient service over to Palermo is provided by SNAV (tel. 081-4285555). The ferry trip takes 10 1/2 hours and costs 30€ to 69€ ($36 to $83) per person. A rival ferry is operated by Tirrenia Lines (tel. 892123), which takes 10 1/2 hours and costs 38€ to 80€ ($46 to $96). Schedules vary depending on weather conditions, so always call on the day of departure even if you've already confirmed your reservation the day before. To call Tirrenia from abroad or from a cellphone, dial tel. 081-0171998.