Frommer's Review
Constructed in 1564, but extended and modified by several later architects, this was the first church in Sicily built by the Jesuits. Regrettably, it was another victim of the 1943 Allied air raids and had to be considerably restored at the end of World War II. Don't judge this church by its somber facade. Its interior is a triumph of baroque indulgence. Everywhere you look is an outstanding example of exuberant Sicilian baroque, with marble adornments, stucco reliefs, polychrome intarsia, and an array of paintings and sculpted works. All this overlay took centuries to complete.
The frescoes in the first bay of the vault of the nave are among the oldest pictorial decorations, created by Filippo Randazzo in 1743. The presbytery and apse also contain some of the original decorations, including sculptures by Gioacchino Vitaliano. Our favorite work of art here is the brilliant chancel decor, the work of the Serpotta brothers. It's a romp of cherubs harvesting grapes, playing musical instruments, and holding torches and bouquets. Seek out the second chapel on the right as you enter to view paintings of St. Philip of Agira and the even more expressive St. Paul the Hermit, both excellent examples of Pietro Novelli's work. The last figure depicted on the left in the St. Paul painting is actually a self-portrait of Novelli.
The magnificent porticoed courtyard gives access to the Biblioteca Comunale, the public library known as "Casa Professa." Filled with ancient manuscripts and incunabula, it also displays 300 portraits of illustrious men.
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