Osteria Lo Bianco

Frommer's Review

The Sicily of yesterday lives on in this no-frills eatery frequented by street vendors and stevedores, with an occasional trucker dropping in. It's not everybody's antipasti, and if we were out on a date with the queen of England we'd take her somewhere else; but we like the joint, even with the rough treatment. The owner presides over the establishment with time-seasoned flair, a sort of Palermo version of the father of Eliza Doolittle in My Fair Lady. We've enjoyed his pasta with fresh sardines, although we find the pasta with potatoes too starchy. We were highly pleased with the spaghetti alla ragù, not having tasted such a rich version of the sauce since we'd departed Naples. And we were rewarded with the sweetest-tasting swordfish steak we've ever had in Sicily. Many diners come here just to make a meal out of pasta nero di seppia (pasta with a medley of seafood).

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