Antica Focacceria San Francesco

All visitors need to make at least one stop at this local favorite, a tradition since 1834, in the Palazzo Reale/Monte di Pietà district. Nearly every kid in Palermo has feasted on its stuffed focaccia sandwiches and other inexpensive eats. High ceilings and marble floors evoke the era in which the eatery was born; the food has changed little since. You can still get panino con la milza (real hair-on-your-chest fare: a bread roll stuffed with slices of boiled beef spleen and melted cheese). The panelle (deep-fried chickpea fritters) are marvelous, as are the arancini di riso (rice balls stuffed with tomatoes and peas or mozzarella). Try the specialty, focaccia farcita (flat pizza baked with various fillings).

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