If you find yourself with a few hours in Patras, we suggest you head inland on Gerokostopoulou to Plateia Yioryiou (George Sq.). Sit at a cafe and take in the facades of the handsome neoclassical theater and banks on the square. Patras was burned by the Turks during the War of Independence and has been hit repeatedly by earthquakes. These buildings are among the few that remain from the 19th century when the city was famous for its arcaded streets and neoclassical architecture. Patras boasts other attractive squares: Plateia Olga and Plateia 25 Martiou have cafes, restaurants, and shops.
Then head down to the waterfront to the Cathedral of St. Andrew. Although the present (substantial, but undistinguished) church was built after World War II, the mosaics give a vivid picture of old Patras. It's important to dress appropriately to visit the cathedral, a major pilgrimage shrine thanks to the presence of St. Andrew's skull in an ornate gold reliquary to the right of the altar. Visitors will find several pleasant cafes in the shaded park across from the cathedral.
If you have an attack of conscience, check to see if the Archaeological Museum, 42 Mezonos (tel. 2610/220-829) is open. It's been closed for renovations, but promises to be open Tuesday through Sunday from 8:30am to 5pm; free admission. If you're here on the weekend and feel energetic, have a look at the Roman Odeon off Platia Martiou; at night, pedestrianized streets such as Gerokostopoulou around the Plateia and the Odeon have lots of bars and cafes. There are also a number of small cafes and restaurants in the streets leading up to the Patras Fortress, a medieval castle on the ancient acropolis that's open Saturday and Sunday from about 8am to 7pm; admission is free. If you drive up, be pleasantly surprised if you don't get lost.
If you take the Rio-AntiRio bridge or ferry from the Peloponnese across to Central Greece, you can see another fortress, the 15th-century Fortress of Rio. The fortress is open daily from 8am to 7pm; admission is free.
The Ferry to the Ionian Islands & Italy
The major ferryboat and shipping companies all have offices on the waterfront. There is usually daily ferry service from Patras to the Ionian islands and Corfu. There are many daily services from Patras to the Italian towns of Brindisi and Ancona. The fastest service to Italy is the 18-hour Super Ferry Crossing from Patras to Ancona, offered by Superfast Ferries (tel. 2610/622-500, or 210/969-1100 in Athens; www.superfast.com). In 2007, a cabin for two cost 300€ ($390); a bunk in a shared four-bunk cabin cost 45€ ($59); price bargaining often possible on board.
