What's New

Peru Today

In the ever surprising (some might say depressing) world of Peruvian politics, former President Alan Garcia (1985-1990) won a runoff over a controversial former military man and was sworn in as president in July 2006. The return of Garcia--who left office in disgrace and spent nine years in exile in Spain and France--was an improbable turn of events. The race between Garcia and the ultra-nationalist Ollanta Humala--an ally of muck-raking Venezuelan President Hugo Chavez--was widely seen in Peru as a choice between the lesser of two evils, or the election of un mal menor.

Another disgraced former president, Alberto Fujimori, who had been living in exile in Japan, made an attempt to return to Peru in November 2005, ostensibly to present himself for the presidential election in April 2006, but was arrested upon touching down in Santiago, Chile. Peruvian authorities have sought to have the ex-president extradited to Peru, where he is wanted on 22 charges, from ?hijacking democracy? to ?directing death squads."

Getting Around

By Plane -- AeroContinente, formerly Peru's largest airline, was grounded in 2004 after its CEO was first accused by the US government of operating as a drug kingpin, drug smuggling, and laundering drug money. The airline was blacklisted, and Fernando Zevallos was imprisoned (he may be extradited to the US in the future).

By Train -- The Ferrocarril Central Andino (tel. 01/361-2828; www.ferroviasperu.com.pe), the highest passenger train in the world but notorious for its patchy service record over the past several years, is back up and running again from Lima to Huancayo in the Central Highlands. The scenic passenger train runs once a month between July and September ($38 round-trip), leaving from the Estación de Desamparados in Lima, but its problematic history makes it virtually impossible to plan a trip to Peru around the train trip.

By Bus -- A long new tract of road from Arequipa to Chivay has been paved, and the final 23km (14 miles) of dirt road should be paved in the near future, making the journey to see the villages and giant Andean condors of Colca Canyon considerably less painful and time-consuming.

A first for South America, a paved highway linking the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, will connect the southern coast of Peru with Brazil, cutting across the southeastern Amazon of Peru and the Brazilian state of Acre. The construction of the Inter-Oceanic Highway entered its final phase in late 2005, with ground broken just north of Puerto Maldonado, and hopes are that the 2,600-km (1,600-mile), $900 million project will be finished by 2010. How this will affect road travel across southern Peru and into the jungle in coming years, though, is still anyone's guess.

Lima

Where to Stay -- The long-time favorite hostel of backpackers, Mochileros (in Barranco) has closed, though its popular pub, Dirty Nelly's, continues to draw throngs of young people.

Where to Dine -- Gastón Acurio, Peru's celebrity chef du jour and the driving force behind Lima's best restaurant, Astrid y Gastón, is on a roll. Not only has he opened branches of Astrid y Gastón in Bogotá, Quito, and Santiago, but his new restaurant Cebichería La Mar (tel. 01/421-3365), an upscale cevichería in Miraflores, is the place Limeños are all lining up to get into. He is also responsible, along with his wife Astrid, for the new T'anta (tel. 01/421-9708), a stylish deli/bar/restaurant with two branches.

One of the fanciest new restaurants in the city was just opening when I was last in Lima, and it's worth checking out if you'd like to dine in a 350-year-old colonial mansion, a veritable house-museum with paintings on loan from the Institute of Culture: Casa Hacienda Moreyra, Av. Paz Soldán, San Isidro (tel. 01/444-4022).

The Central Coast & Highlands

Pisco -- Where to Stay -- A nice and modestly priced small hotel in an attractive colonial house, adding to the small roster of acceptable accommodations in Pisco, is Hostal Villa Manuelita, San Francisco 227 (tel. 056/535-218).

Nasca -- Prices for one-day, round-trip excursions from Lima to Nasca, including overflight to see the famous Nasca Lines, have skyrocketed (to $300-$350 per person) on AeroCondor (tel. 01/614-6014; www.aerocondor.com.pe) and AeroIca (tel. 01/445-0859; www.aeroica.net/icahomeing.html). At present, however, there are still no independent flights from Lima to Nasca or nearby Ica.

Where to Stay -- The former Hotel de la Borda, which always had potential but badly needed a makeover, has received one, as well as a name change: Hotel Majoro, Ctra. Panamericana Sur Km 452 (tel. 056/522-750) is now one of the best places in town to stay.

Cusco

Visitor Information -- A new iPerú office, Av. El Sol 103, of. 102 (tel. 084/234-498), is open daily from 8:30am to 7:30pm and appears to be more helpful than the larger, central municipal office.

What to See & Do -- Cusco's tourist pass, or boleto turístico, is still required for visiting 16 of the most important sights in and around Cusco, though the price has doubled; a full ticket now costs S/70 ($20) for adults and S/35 ($10) for students with ID and children. Also, Cusco's cathedral is no longer included on the boleto; admission is separate (S/13 or $3.75 adults, S/4 or $1.15 students and children).

Where to Stay -- Casa Andina (tel. 01/446-8848; www.casa-andina.com), the Peruvian hotel chain, now has three hotels in downtown Cusco and will soon be adding one of its new upscale, "Private Collection" hotels in a historic building near Qoricancha. Niños Hotel (tel. 084/231-424; www.ninoshotel.com), famous for its good works and great-value rooms, has added a second hotel in Cusco, as well as a bunch more adopted Peruvian street children. Though it's outside the city center, the safe, comfortable and extremely friendly Torre Dorada (tel. 084/241-698; www.torredorada.com.pe) is an excellent family-run inn that provides free transportation back and forth to town and more service than most large luxury hotels. Casa de la Gringa (tel. 084/241-168) has moved to a more convenient location in the San Blas neighborhood, at Pasnapacana 148 (corner of Tandapata).

Where to Dine -- Jack's Café Bar, Choquechaca 509 (tel. 084/806-960) has quickly become one of the most popular gringo hangouts in Cusco, serving very good meals at all hours of the day. The best new upscale restaurant in Cusco is Cicciolina, Triunfo 393, 2nd floor (tel. 084/239-510). A good vegetarian option is Moni Café Restaurant, San Agustín 311 (tel. 084/231-029).

The Sacred Valley of the Incas

Where to Stay -- Hoteliers are betting big on the Valle Sagrado; new country-luxury hotels are popping up all over the region. Two of the newest and best are Casa Andina Private Collection (tel. 084/976-550; www.casa-andina.com) and Libertador Valle Sagrado Lodge (tel. 084/251-526; www.vallesagradolodge.com). The old Incaland Hotel has been acquired by the Libertador chain; now renamed as the Libertador Tambo del Inka, Av. Ferrocarril s/n, Urubamba (tel. 084/201-126), it is undergoing a massive renovation and will in the next couple of years become one of the valley's largest and most luxurious hotels. Ollantaytambo continues to grow in popularity as a stopover in the Sacred Valley; its newest hotel is Ollantaytambo Lodge, Quinta Cruz Esquina s/n (tel. 084/272-436; www.ollantaytambolodge.com).

Hiking the Inca Trail -- The Camino del Inca, or Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, continues to climb in popularity and price; standard-class treks, the most common and economical service, cost between $280 and $330 per person, including entrance fees. Several international tour operators are now offering alternative treks to Machu Picchu, avoiding the overcrowded Inca Trail.

Machu Picchu -- Prices continue to rise on the PeruRail trains that are the only way to get to Machu Picchu (other than walking), but none so much as the luxury Hiram Bingham train, which now costs $495 round-trip.

Puno & Lake Titicaca

Where to Stay -- Casa Andina (tel. 01/446-8848; www.casa-andina.com), the Peruvian hotel chain, now has two hotels in Puno (Puno Plaza and Tikarani) and is adding a third, an installment of their upscale Private Collection series, on the banks of Lake Titicaca. Casa Andina is now also managing the ecolodge on tiny Isla Suasi under its name.

Arequipa

What to See & Do -- The cathedral, one of the most prominent victims of the 2001 earthquake, has now been fully restored and is open for visits and Mass. The Museo Santuarios Andinos, home to the mummy of Juanita, the Ice Maiden of Ampato, has moved to a new location at La Merced 110 (tel. 054/200-345).

Where to Stay -- The best new hotel in town -- and one of the best small hotels in Peru -- is Casa Arequipa (tel. 054/284-219; www.arequipacasa.com), a small boutique hotel offering real luxury for a bargain price. The old Portal Hotel, which needed quite a bit of TLC to go with its enviable location on the Plaza de Armas, is finally getting it, now that it's part of the Sonesta Posada del Inca chain, Portal de Flores 116 (tel. 054/215-530; www.sonesta.com). La Casa de Melgar Hostal, Melgar 108, Cercado ([tel 054/222-459; www.lacasademelgar.com) an excellent small hotel and true bargain, has added a new wing of rooms in a colonial extension.

Where to Dine -- My favorite new restaurant in Arequipa is La Trattoria del Monasterio (tel. 054/204-062), built into the wall of the Santa Catalina monastery; the menu was conceived by the ubiquitous famed chef Gastón Acurio. Restaurant closings include old favorites Gianni and El Pipe.

Where to Stay -- Parador del Colca, Fundo Curiña s/n, on the outskirts of Yanque (tel. 01/242-3425; www.orient-expresshotels.com) is finally embarking on an expansion, promised since its acquisition by the luxury hotel chain Orient-Express. The new plan calls for construction of 10 luxury casitas. Hotel Kuntur Wassi, La Ladera 360 (tel. 054/832-170; www.kunturwassi.com) is a great new addition in quiet Cabanaconde, excellent for those looking to spend some time hiking in Colca Canyon.

Amazonia

Tambopata & Manu -- Formerly called the Tambopata-Candamo Reserve, the Amazon jungle near Puerto Maldonado (and the Madre de Dios and Tambopata rivers) is now officially called the Tambopata National Reserve.

Manu Biosphere Reserve -- Manu remains complicated to get to, especially now that the Peruvian air force has had to take over flights into Boca Manu, the gateway. Manu is primarily for those with plenty of time and money.

Tambopata -- Recently revamped, Reserva Amazónica (tel. 01/610-0410; www.inkaterra.com), one of the oldest lodges in the southern Peruvian Amazon, has quickly become its most stylish. Owned by the folks behind Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, it has plush African-style bungalows and a swank dining room/lounge, perfect for showing off your safari wear.

Northern Peru

Chiclayo (Lambayeque) -- What to See & Do -- The splendid and architecturally stunning Museo Tumbas Reales Sipán, Juan Pablo Vizcardo y Guzman s/n (tel. 074/283-977; www.tumbasreales.org) is now the repository of one of the most important and fascinating archaeological exhibits in Peru, the Lord of Sipán (which previously resided at the nearby Museo Arqueológico Brüning). Another excellent new archaeological museum, dedicated to finds of the Sicán civilization, is the Museo Nacional Sicán, Av. Batán Grande, in Ferreñafe (tel. 074/286-469; http://sican.perucultural.org.pe).

Where to Stay -- The Hotel María Alejandra in Chiclayo has become the Las Musas Hotel & Casino, Los Faiques 101 (tel. 074/273-445).

Cajamarca -- Hotel Costa del Sol, Jr. del Comercio 773 (tel. 076/822-472; www.costadelsolperu.com/cajamarca.html), a new upscale but moderately priced hotel in a colonial building right on the Plaza de Armas, adds to Cajamarca's appealing range of accommodations.

After Dark -- The hangout of choice for gringos and local hipsters is Casa Luna, Dos de Mayo 334 (tel. 076/333-072).

Huaraz -- Phone number prefixes have changed in Huaraz; rather than beginning with a "7," (right after the area code, 043) they now begin with "4." In Carhuaz and Caraz, telephone numbers begin with "3" rather than the old "7."