Getting There

By Bus

You can travel overland to Peru through Ecuador, Bolivia, or Chile. Although the journey isn't short, Lima can be reached from major neighboring cities. If traveling from Quito or Guayaquil, you'll pass through the major northern coastal cities on the way to Lima. From Bolivia, there is frequent service from La Paz and Copacabana to Puno and then on to Cusco. From Chile, most buses travel from Arica to Tacna, making connections to either Arequipa or Lima.

By Plane

All overseas flights from North America and Europe arrive at Lima's Jorge Chávez International Airport (tel. 01/517-3502; www.lap.com.pe). International flights to Iquitos in the northern Amazon region might be resumed at some point in the near future, perhaps from Miami, but it is only a possibility at this point.

In Peru, it is very important to reconfirm airline tickets in advance. For local flights, reconfirm 48 hours in advance; for international flights, reconfirm 72 hours before traveling. The airport tax on domestic flights is $5.04, and $28.24 on international flights. The tax must be paid -- in cash only -- before boarding.

From North America -- From the United States, there are direct flights to Lima from Miami, the main hub for Latin America, as well as New York, Newark, Houston, Dallas, and Atlanta. The major carriers are American (through Dallas or Miami, with infrequent nonstops from New York; tel. 800/433-7300; www.aa.com), Delta (Atlanta; tel. 800/241-4141; www.delta.com), Continental (Houston and Newark; tel. 800/231-0856; www.continental.com), and LAN, with direct overnight flights from New York and Miami (LanChile/LanPeru; tel. 866/435-9526; www.lan.com).

Continental has probably the most comprehensive service to Lima, with daily nonstops from Newark and Houston. Often the lowest fares from the United States are with LAN. American also occasionally features very good deals on airfares to Lima from the United States.

From Canada, American, Continental, and Delta all fly to Peru, making stops at their hubs in the United States first. Air Canada (tel. 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.ca) makes connections with other carriers at U.S. stops, usually Miami. LAN (tel. 866/435-9526) uses other carriers to the United States, making stops in New York, Miami, or Los Angeles on the way to Lima. (For example, you can purchase a LAN ticket from Canada to Peru, with a layover in the U.S., but you will fly a partner airline to the U.S. and then change to a LAN airliner for travel on to Peru.)

From the U.K. -- There are no direct flights to Lima from London or any other part of the United Kingdom or Ireland; getting to Peru involves a layover in either another part of Europe or the United States. American (tel. 207/365-0777 in London, or 0845/778-9789), Continental (tel. 0845/607-6760), and Delta (tel. 845/600-0950) fly through their U.S. hubs on the way to Lima. European carriers make stops in continental Europe: Contact Iberia (through Madrid; tel. 870/609-0500; www.iberia.com), KLM (Amsterdam; tel. 08705/074-074; www.klm.com), or Lufthansa (tel. 0845/773-7747; www.lufthansa.com).

From Australia & New Zealand -- From Australia and New Zealand, you can either fly to Buenos Aires on Aerolíneas Argentinas (tel. 02/9234-9000 in Australia or tel.09/379-3675 in New Zealand; www.aerolineas.com.au) and then connect to Lima, or go through Los Angeles (or Buenos Aires), with Qantas (tel. 13-13-13 in Australia or 800/808-767 in New Zealand; www.qantas.com) or Air New Zealand (tel. 0800/737-000; www.airnz.co.nz). LAN (tel. 300/361-400 in Australia and 9/977-2233 in New Zealand) also makes stops in Los Angeles on the way to Lima.

Getting Through the Airport -- With the federalization of airport security, security procedures at U.S. airports are more stable and consistent than ever. Generally, you'll be fine if you arrive at the airport 1 hour before a domestic flight and 2 hours before an international flight; if you show up late, tell an airline employee and she'll probably whisk you to the front of the line.

Bring a current, government-issued photo ID such as a driver's license or passport. Keep your ID ready to show at check-in, the security checkpoint, and sometimes even the gate. (Children under 18 do not need photo IDs for domestic flights, but they do for international flights to most countries.)

In 2003, the TSA phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets, which have made paper tickets nearly obsolete, can beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or even online check-in from their home computers. Online check-in involves logging on to your airlines' website, accessing your reservation, and printing out your boarding pass -- and the airline may even offer you bonus miles to do so! If you're using a kiosk at the airport, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. Print out your boarding pass from the kiosk and simply proceed to the security checkpoint with your pass and a photo ID. If you're checking bags or looking to snag an exit-row seat, you will be able to do so using most airline kiosks. Even the smaller airlines are employing the kiosk system, but always call your airline to make sure these alternatives are available. Curbside check-in is also a good way to avoid lines, although a few airlines still don't allow it; call for your airline's policy before you go.

Security checkpoint lines are getting shorter than they were during 2001 and 2002, but an orange alert, suspicious passenger, or high passenger volume can still make for a long wait. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time, tell an airline employee; the airline will provide a wheelchair. Speed up security by not wearing metal objects such as big belt buckles. If you've got metallic body parts, a note from your doctor can prevent a long chat with the security screeners. Keep in mind that only ticketed passengers are allowed past security, except for people escorting passengers with disabilities or children.

Federalization has stabilized what you can carry on and what you can't. The general rule is that sharp things are out, nail clippers are okay, and food and beverages must be passed through the X-ray machine -- but that security screeners can't make you drink from your coffee cup. Bring food in your carry-on rather than checking it; explosive-detection machines used on checked luggage have been known to mistake food (especially chocolate, for some reason) for bombs. Travelers in the U.S. are allowed one carry-on bag, plus a "personal item" such as a purse, briefcase, or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can stuff all sorts of things into a laptop bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it's still considered a personal item. The TSA has issued a list of restricted items; check the website (www.tsa.gov) for details.

Airport screeners might decide that your checked luggage needs to be searched by hand. You can now purchase luggage locks that allow screeners to open and relock a checked bag if hand-searching is necessary. Look for Travel Sentry certified locks at luggage or travel shops and Brookstone stores (you can buy them online at www.brookstone.com). These locks, approved by the TSA, can be opened by luggage inspectors with a special code or key. For more information on the locks, visit www.travelsentry.org. If you use something other than TSA-approved locks, your lock will be cut off your suitcase if a TSA agent needs to hand-search your luggage.

Flying For Less: Tips for Getting the Best Airfare -- Passengers sharing the same airplane cabin rarely pay the same fare. Travelers who need to purchase tickets at the last minute, change their itinerary at a moment's notice, or fly one-way often get stuck paying the premium rate. Here are some ways to keep your airfare costs down.

Passengers who can book their ticket long in advance, who can stay over Saturday night, or who fly midweek or at less-trafficked hours will pay a fraction of the full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans.

You can also save on airfares by keeping an eye out in local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes. You rarely see fare wars offered for peak travel times, but if you can travel in the off-months, you might snag a bargain.

Search the Internet for cheap fares.

Try to book a ticket in its country of origin. For instance, if you're planning a one-way flight from Wellington to Cusco, a New Zealand-based travel agent will probably have the lowest fares. For multileg trips, book in the country of the first leg; for example, book London-New York-Miami-Lima in the U.K.

Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are great sources for international tickets, although they usually can't beat the Internet on fares within North America. Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections; U.S. travelers should focus on the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, and Miami Herald. For less developed destinations, small travel agents who cater to immigrant communities in large cities often have the best deals. Beware: Bucket shop tickets are usually nonrefundable or rigged with stiff cancellation penalties, often as high as 50% to 75% of the ticket price, and some put you on charter airlines with questionable safety records.

Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available on the Net. STA Travel is now the world's leader in student travel, thanks to its purchase of Council Travel. It also offers good fares for travelers of all ages. ELTExpress (aka Flights.com; tel. 800/TRAV-800; www.eltexpress.com) started in Europe and has excellent fares worldwide, but particularly to that continent. It also has "local" websites in 12 countries. FlyCheap (tel. 800/FLY-CHEAP; www.1800flycheap.com) is owned by package-holiday megalith MyTravel and so has especially good access to fares for sunny destinations. Air Tickets Direct (tel. 800/778-3447; www.airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and leverages the currently weak Canadian dollar for low fares; it'll also book trips to places that U.S. travel agents won't touch, such as Cuba.

Join frequent-flier clubs. Accrue enough miles, and you'll be rewarded with free flights and elite status. It's free, and you'll get the best choice of seats, faster response to phone inquiries, and prompter service if your luggage is stolen, your flight is canceled or delayed, or you want to change your seat. You don't need to fly to build frequent-flier miles -- frequent-flier credit cards can provide thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping.