A 2- to 2 1/2-hour drive north of Aqaba, this is the jewel in the crown of Jordan's attractions, and the main objective of many travelers to the country. The canyon city of Petra is vast, mysterious, and really demands a 1- or 2-night stay and 2 full days of exploring to get a feel for the atmosphere, to say nothing of the contents of the ruins. You could easily spend 3 or 4 very full days exploring Petra and the surrounding countryside. If you're staying at one of the luxury resort hotels near Petra, you can plan for a relaxing, exotic desert holiday amid marvelous surroundings, enjoying local foods, entertainment, and the opportunity to browse shops filled with tribal crafts. For those on a budget, the many less expensive hotels at Wadi Musa, 5km (3 miles) from the entrance to Petra, are reasonably comfortable, and offer the chance to meet interesting fellow travelers on the treks and tours of Petra. A hard day of exploring Petra will work up your appetite. In the evenings, many budget hotels offer very reasonably priced buffet dinners where travelers can meet to try traditional Middle Eastern dishes, make plans, and recount experiences. Many travelers buffet hop, and look for the most interesting and freshest deals being offered each night.
Getting There
After crossing from Eilat into Aqaba, it's easy to find taxis that will take you up to Petra. Some bargaining is required, but the general fare is around JD 40 ($56). This is the fastest, safest, and most direct way to make the journey. Splitting a taxi with others you may meet at the border can make the fare per person very reasonable. Bus fare will be less than JD 7 ($10); at times the Tourism Information Center in Eilat may be able to supply you with current bus schedules from Aqaba to Eilat. If you want to avoid the hassle of bargaining with taxi drivers, ask your hotel in Petra to arrange for a pick-up for you at the border crossing. Most Petra hotels in all price categories will be happy to do this -- it ensures you won't be lured somewhere else. Again, the fare will be about JD 40 to JD 42 ($56-$60). Travel agencies in Eilat can arrange for escorted, 1-, 2-, or 3-day tours, or unescorted packages to Petra that will include transportation arrangements. If you've got it, Petra is worth lots of time, and it's best to stay at least 1 or 2 nights.
Visitor Information
The Visitors Center at the entrance to Petra (tel. 03/215-6060) is open Saturday through Thursday from 6:30am to 5pm. You can stay inside Petra until you are shooed out at sunset. Admission to Petra is JD 21 ($28) for 1 day; JD 26 ($35) for 2 days; and JD 31 ($42) for 3 days. Children are half price. If you have hired a Jordanian guide, you should know that the admission price for Jordanians is JD 1 ($1.40). Renting a horse to ride into Petra is JD 7 ($9.80) per head; a carriage is JD 20 ($28). At the Visitors Center, independent travelers can hire guides for JD 9 to JD 57 ($12-$80) per trip, depending on how long and how extensive you want your tour to be. Many of the guides are colorful, and most know their stuff. It's a good idea to hire a guide, at least for your first foray into Petra, and especially if you plan to do a hike to some of the more remote parts of the city. A standard 2 1/2-hour Petra city tour costs JD 15 ($21) for a party of up to 10 people.
At the Visitors Center, you'll also find a variety of books and maps of Petra for sale. A good guidebook and map are very useful investments, even if you hire a guide; most books make a basic self-guided tour of Petra quite easy, especially if you have a chance to read up before your visit. Officially, the park is open daily until 6pm, but in summer the guards usually let visitors stay a bit later in order to take in the sunset and twilight. It's a good idea to bring your own bottle of water when you enter Petra; as the day progresses you'll need to buy more bottled water from the Bedouins who until recently inhabited the site. A number of stands inside Petra sell refreshments and food. Prices will be high, but don't hesitate to shell out for water; keep drinking even if you're not especially thirsty to avoid the dangers of dehydration! In summer, you'll need four 1.5-liter bottles of water to get through the day.
Petra by Night--To the dismay of romantics and adventurers, the Petra National Park closes at sunset, even though this mysterious, long-hidden site is especially evocative in the evenings, and was once a great place to camp at night. Camping is still forbidden, but recently, the park service has been offering Monday and Thursday night candlelight tours, starting at 8:30pm for JD12 ($17) -- a great way to spend the evening if you plan to be in Petra on those days. Night tours are also offered when there's a full moon. Check with the park authorities, and reserve in advance.
