Side Trips

Wadi Rum & Dana Nature Reserve

You can obtain information about these extraordinary reserves for camping, escorted tours, and hiking by checking the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature website (www.rscn.org.jo), which contains specific information about eco-tourism to the dramatic desert landscapes of Wadi Rum, south of Petra, and about the wild, mountainous Dana Reserve, north of Petra, as well as about other nature and wildlife reserves in the Kingdom of Jordan.

Aqaba

Aqaba is much quieter than Eilat, but at press time, it was going through the kind of frantic reconstruction of its tourism infrastructure that Eilat went through in the early 1990s. For the moment, the beaches are less friendly than Eilat's for women traveling alone, but that will likely change as Aqaba becomes more of an international tourism destination. The town has inexpensive, interesting restaurants, reefs are less damaged than in Eilat, and prices for accommodations are lower. Aqaba can be a relaxing stop for an overnight or a day or two en route between Petra and Eilat.

Where to Stay --The Movenpick Aqaba Resort (tel. 962-03/203-4020; www.moevenpick-hotels.com), built in 2003, has 247 rooms and meets international luxury standards with a set of four swimming pools, plus a private beach, nine restaurants, a bar, and fitness and health facilities. Comfy rooms have an array of amenities ranging from high-speed Internet access to makeup mirrors in the bathrooms. Direct sea-view rooms cost extra, but are great for sunset watching. Rates are $184 to $240 (£92-£120) for a double (higher rates are for sea view).

The Aqaba Intercontinental (tel. 962-03/209-2222; www.ichotelsgroup.com) is the newest (2006) five-star hotel in town. The 255 rooms are fresh and stylish: There's a private beach and variety of pools and in-house dining choices. There may be nearby construction during the day. Rates are $160 to $235 (£80-£118) with breakfast included; without breakfast starting at $124 (£112).

Moderate and Budget Hotels -- Aqaba's hotels in the $90-to-$120 (£45-£60) moderate range are all very worn and poor value. Better to upgrade to the Movenpick or Intercontinental, where you can at times find special deals, or opt for an inexpensive hotel.

A budget hotel choice is the centrally located (in town but not on the beach), 32-room Shweiki Hotel, Hammamat Street, town center (tel. 03/202-2657; fax 03/202-2659). A standard double room is $45 to $60 (£23-£30), plus 13% tax and 10% service; all major credit cards are accepted. Guest rooms all have private bathroom, air-conditioning, minibar, and TV; guests receive a free voucher for the large pool at the nearby Aqaba Gulf Hotel. As at most Aqaba hotels, bargains are available.

Diving Centers -- The Royal Diving Center is located 17km (11 miles) south of Aqaba (tel. 03/201-7035; fax 03/201-7097). With a private beach beside a superb reef, this is the best-run snorkeling and diving center in Aqaba, offering equipment rentals, lessons, dives, and diving tours. It's open daily 9am to 5pm in summer; 9am to 4pm in winter. Admission is JD 2 ($2.80/£1.40); mask, fins, and snorkel rental is JD 3 ($4.20/£2.15). A taxi here from town costs JD 3 ($4.20/£2.15).