Restaurants

Between remnants of French colonialism and the recent influx of humanitarian-aid workers, international cuisine abounds in the Cambodian capital. Some restaurants themselves are actually NGO (non-government organization) projects designed to raise money for local causes or provide training. Ask Khmer folks where to eat and you'll certainly be pointed to any of the street-side stalls or storefront Chinese noodle shops south of the Central Market, but good eats can be had from one of many options along riverside Sisowath or in and among the lazy alleys of the town center.

For an interesting evening of local fun and frolic, cross the Cambodian-Japanese Friendship bridge on the Tonle Sap River in the north end of town and follow the main road a few short clicks to the town of Prek Leap, a grouping of large riverside eateries always crowded with locals on the weekend. Some of these places put on popular variety shows: It's the universal language of slapstick in play here and a good chance to eat, talk, and laugh with locals. All the restaurants serve similar good Khmer and Chinese fare. Go by taxi and pick the most crowded place; the more, the merrier.

Snacks & Cafés

Java Café and Gallery, No. 56 Sihanouk Blvd. (tel. 023/987-420), is a good spot in town to relax and escape the midday heat. Just south of the main sights (near the Independence Monument), this popular second-story oasis has casual seating on a large balcony and an open gallery interior. They serve real coffee, cappuccino, good cakes, and other baked goods; they sometimes feature live music in the evening. It's open 7am to 10pm.

The Deli at No. 13 Street 178 (tel. 012/851-234) is a favorite among the expats in town for a good sandwich and excellent pastries.

The Shop is a stylish little stop on popular Street 240 (tel. 023/986-964) and now has a new location on the north end of Sisowath Quay. They serve baked goods (try the raspberry chocolate tart), tea, and coffee in a friendly and comfortable storefront at each location. There are neat details like butcher-block tables and fresh flowers, and they can arrange picnic lunches for day trips from Phnom Penh.

Sugar Palm (No. 19 Street 240; tel. 023/220-956) serves good Khmer dishes at street-side or from their upstairs balcony. It's a gallery that features good local crafts and a good place to relax and enjoy real Khmer atmosphere and good treats.

Pizza can be found at any number of storefronts on the crowded riverside; Happy Pizza, at No. 223 Sisowath Quay (tel. 012/559-114), is among them. Beginning with the name, there are cute little codes in play here, so to cut through it all, say "Please don't put marijuana on my pizza," unless you want it. Same drill at Ecstatic Pizza, 193 Norodom Blvd. (tel. 023/365-089); both are good and will deliver, pot or not.