Restaurants

You can get a good and fairly inexpensive pasta and pizza meal at perennially packed La Sala "Da Ale," Via San Anastasio 4 (tel. 0573-24-108; Fri-Wed noon-2:30pm and 7pm-midnight), at the edge of Piazza della Sala. For excellent midpriced meals under brick vaults, go to San Jacopo, Via Crispi 15 (tel. 0573-27-786; Wed-Sun 12:15-2:30pm and 7-10pm, Tues 7-10pm), for panzerotti gratinati (a pasta casserole with mozzarella, tomatoes, mortadella, and prosciutto).

A Cappuccino Break -- Valiani, Via Cavour 55 (tel. 0573-23-034), is a cafe and pastry shop installed in 1831 under the high, vaulted ceilings behind a striped Romanesque facade next to San Giovanni Fuoricivitas. There are also a few tables outside.