Portsmouth has perhaps the best cafe scene in New England; there are at least 10 places downtown where you can get a good cup of coffee and decent baked goods and while away the time. There's a Starbucks, of course, but my favorites are Breaking New Grounds, off Market Square (tel. 603/436-9555), with outstanding espresso shakes and good tables for chatting; Caffe Kilim at 79 Daniel St. (tel. 603/436-7330), across from the post office, a bohemian choice; and Me and Ollie's at 10 Pleasant St. (tel. 603/436-7777), well known locally for its bread and homemade granola.
If you want a bit more of a bite with your coffee, three outstanding places leap to mind. The tie-dyed Friendly Toast, at 121 Congress St. (tel. 603/430-2154), serves a variety of eggs and other breakfast dishes all day long, plus heartier items such as burgers. Funky Ceres Bakery, 51 Penhallow St. (tel. 603/436-6518), on a side street, has a handful of tiny tables; you may want to get a cookie or slice of cake to go and walk to the waterfront rose gardens. Cafe Brioche, 14 Market Sq. (tel. 603/430-9225), is the most high-profile hangout, often crowded with folks attracted by its central location and delectable French baked goods and buzz-inducing coffees.
