Things To Do in Portsmouth, NH

Portsmouth’s 18th-century prosperity is evident in the Georgian-style homes that dot the city. Strawbery Banke (pictured above), which occupies the core of the historic area, is well worth visiting. If you don’t have the budget, time, or inclination to spend half a day at Strawbery Banke, a walking tour takes you past many other significant homes, some of which are maintained by various historical or colonial societies and are open to the public. A map of the historic Portsmouth Harbor Trail is available free at information centers.

Most travelers tend to visit just Strawbery Banke, do a little shopping at the downtown boutiques, grab a bite, and hustle onward to Maine. To get a fuller sense of historic Portsmouth, though, take the time to stroll a bit off the beaten track. The so-called “South End” neighborhood around the Wentworth-Gardner House and Prescott Park is a great area to snoop around in. You’ll find lanes too narrow for SUVs to fit into, twisting roads, fish and lobster shacks, and wooden-frame houses of all shapes and sizes. It’s a great taste of the early 19th century, and definitely off the beaten tourist track.

Tired from touring? Take a break at Prescott Park, between Strawbery Banke and the water. It’s one of the best municipal parks in New England. The water views, lemonade vendors, benches, grass, lovely gardens, and full card of festivals make it worth a visit. There’s a full calendar of events at the park festival website, www.prescottpark.org.

Getting Out on the Water from Portsmouth

Portsmouth is especially attractive when seen from the water. A small fleet of tour boats ties up at Portsmouth, taking scenic tours of the Piscataqua River and the historic Isles of Shoals throughout the summer and fall.

One of the most distinctive ways to experience the Seacoast is aboard the Gundalow Company (tel. 603/433-9505) a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the maritime heritage of the Piscataqua region. Passengers sail on the Piscataqua, a replica of the flat-bottomed cargo vessels that once transported timber, bricks, and other goods along the tidal rivers of Maine and New Hampshire. Departing from Portsmouth, public sails, sunset cruises, concerts, and private charters offer sweeping views of working waterfronts, forts, lighthouses, and the Naval Shipyard while onboard educators share stories of the region’s history and ecology. More than a sightseeing cruise, staff on each voyage provide the historical context and lived experience that really allow visitors to feel connected s visitors to the waterways that shaped New England’s economy and culture for centuries. Tickets range from $38 to $55 for adults, about $10-$20 less for children.

The long-established Isles of Shoals Steamship Co. (tel. 603/431-5500) sails from Barker Wharf on Market Street on a variety of tours aboard the 90-foot, three-deck MV Thomas Laighton (a modern replica of a late-19th-century steamship). Most popular are the excursions to the Isles of Shoals, where passengers can disembark and wander about Star Island, a dramatic, rocky landmass that’s part of an island cluster far out in the offshore swells. Reservations are strongly encouraged. Other popular trips include a sunset lighthouse cruise, with an acoustic accompaniment. Fares average $40 per adult ($30 for children) but vary depending on the length of the cruise; dinner cruises cost extra. Parking is an additional charge, as well.

Portsmouth Harbor Cruises (tel. 800/776-0915 or 603/436-8084) specializes in seasonal tours of the historic Piscataqua River aboard the Heritage, a 60-foot, 49-passenger cruise ship with plenty of open deck space. It leaves from the Ceres Street docks, beside the tugboats. Cruise past five old forts or enjoy the picturesque tidal estuary of inland Great Bay, a scenic trip upriver from Portsmouth. Trips run daily in summer, weekends only in spring and fall; reservations are suggested. Fares begin at $31 for adults; $24 for children. Senior and military discounts available.

Surfing in New Hampshire

New Hampshire may have only 18 miles of coastline, but it has a surprisingly robust surf scene, especially around Rye and North Hampton. Summer brings smaller, beginner-friendly waves, while fall and winter attract experienced surfers chasing bigger Atlantic swells. Jenness State Beach in Rye is the usual starting point for newcomers, thanks to its mellow breaks and concentration of surf schools.

E Street Surf School (tel. 603/964-7873), at 29 Old Beach Rd., North Hampton, offers beginner lessons, camps, and board-and-wetsuit rentals within easy reach of the beach. Nearby, Summer Sessions Surf Shop (tel. 603/431-7000), 2281 Ocean Blvd., Rye, rents surfboards, wetsuits, and paddleboards and also runs lessons for all levels. Cinnamon Rainbows Surf Company (tel. 603/964-5737), 931 Ocean Blvd., Hampton, is a long-running local institution known for custom boards, gear, and insider knowledge about current conditions. Down the coast near Seabrook Beach, Zapstix’s Surf & Skate (tel. 603/474-0900), 320 Lafayette Rd., Seabrook, stocks rentals, apparel, and enough beach-town energy to make even non-surfers consider buying a wetsuit.