A Magical History Tour--Portsmouth's 18th-century prosperity is evident in the Georgian-style homes that dot the city. Strawbery Banke occupies the core of the historic area and is well worth visiting. If you don't have the budget, time, or inclination to spend half a day at Strawbery Banke, a walking tour takes you past many other significant homes, some of which are maintained by various historical or colonial societies and are open to the public. A helpful map and brochure, The Portsmouth Trail: An Historic Walking Tour, is available free at information centers.
Tired? Take a break at Prescott Park, between Strawbery Banke and the water. It's one of my favorite municipal parks in New England. Water views, lemonade vendors, benches, grass, and occasional festivals make it worth a visit.
Around the Wentworth-Gardner House--Most travelers tend to visit just Strawbery Banke, then perhaps do a little shopping at the downtown boutiques. To get a fuller sense of historic Portsmouth, walk a bit off the beaten track. The neighborhood around the Wentworth-Gardner House is a great area to snoop around -- with lanes too narrow for SUVs, twisting roads, and wooden houses, both restored and unrestored. Get a real taste of the early 19th century here.
Boat Tours--Portsmouth is especially attractive seen from the water. A small fleet of tour boats ties up at Portsmouth, offering scenic tours of the Piscataqua River and the historic Isle of Shoals throughout the summer and fall.
The Isle of Shoals Steamship Co. (tel. 800/441-4620 or 603/431-5500; www.islesofshoals.com) sails from Barker Wharf on Market Street and is the most established of the tour companies. The firm offers a variety of tours on the 90-foot, three-deck Thomas Laighton (a modern replica of a late-19th-c. steamship) and the 70-foot Oceanic, especially designed for whale-watching. One popular excursion is to the Isle of Shoals, at which passengers can disembark and wander about Star Island, a dramatic, rocky island that's part of an island cluster far out in the offshore swells. Reservations are strongly encouraged. Other popular trips include 6-hour whale-watching voyages and a sunset lighthouse cruise. Fares range from $23 to $30 for adults, $13 to $20 for children, and $20 to $27 for seniors and military, depending on the length of the cruise. Parking costs an additional charge.
Portsmouth Harbor Cruises (tel. 800/776-0915 or 603/436-8084; www.portsmouthharbor.com) specializes in tours of the historic Piscataqua River aboard the Heritage, a 49-passenger cruise ship with plenty of open deck space. Cruise by five old forts or enjoy the picturesque tidal estuary of inland Great Bay, a scenic trip upriver from Portsmouth. Trips run daily; reservations are suggested. Fares are $11 to $18 for adults, $9.50 to $17 for seniors, and $7 to $10 for children.
