Evelyn's Drive-In

No Rhody food adventure is complete without a visit to an authentic clam shack. There are at least a dozen dotted along the coast beside beaches and inlets, and Evelyn's is one of the first a local is likely to recommend. There's a takeout window in front, a dining room with air-conditioning, and many more tables on the terrace out back, some roofed over, others with umbrellas. The menu lists all the seaside essentials -- clear clam chowder, clam cakes, stuffies, calamari, fried scallops, lobster rolls. Fried clams are either whole-bellied (for purists) or strips (who find the bellies squishy), but all are committed to the snapping-hot oil not one second longer than necessary to reach nutty crispiness. There are plenty of nonmarine dishes, including a popular chicken pie and meat loaf. There's a full-service bar.

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