Providence Attractions

Boosters are understandably proud of their Waterplace Park & Riverwalk, which encircles a tidal basin and borders the Woonasquatucket River down past where it joins the Moshassuck to become the Providence River. It incorporates an amphitheater, boat landings, landscaped walkways, and vaguely Venetian bridges that cross to the East Side. Summer concerts and other events are held here, among them the enormously popular WaterFire (tel. 401/272-3111; www.waterfire.org), when a hundred bonfires are set ablaze in braziers set around the basin of Waterplace Park and along the river. WaterFire takes place on evenings in late May through October, with the roar and flicker accentuated by amplified music.

Nearby, in Kennedy Plaza, the Fleet Skating Center has an ice rink twice the size of the one in New York's Rockefeller Center, fully utilized almost every winter evening. Skate rentals, lockers, and a snack bar are available.

Strolling the Historic Neighborhoods -- This is a city of manageable size -- the population is about 175,000 -- that can easily occupy 2 or 3 days of a Rhode Island vacation. One leisurely walk passes most of the prominent attractions and provides a sense of the city's evolution from a colony of dissidents to a contemporary center of commerce and government.

Start downtown, charting a route from the 1878 City Hall on Kennedy Plaza along Dorrance Street 1 block to Westminster. Turn left, then right in 1 block, past The Arcade, then left on Weybosset.

Follow Weybosset until it joins Westminster and continue across the Providence River. Turn right on the other side, walking along South Water Street as far as James Street, just before the I-195 overpass. Turn left, cross South Main, and then turn left on Benefit Street. This is the start of the so-called Mile of History. Lined with 18th- and 19th-century houses, it is enhanced by gas streetlamps and sections of brick herringbone sidewalks. Along the way are opportunities to visit, in sequence, the 1786 John Brown House, the First Unitarian Church (1816), the Providence Athenaeum, and the Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design.

The Rhode Island Historical Society (tel. 401/438-0463; www.rihs.org) offers 90-minute guided tours of four different neighborhoods of interest.

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Providence Shopping

Thayer Street, the main commercial district for the university, is home to the official Brown Bookstore, at no. 244 (at the corner of Olive St.). Also in the vicinity are Silverberry's, at no. 220, with dressy and casual clothes for college-age women, and Hillhouse, no. 135, long in the business of providing male Brownies with Ivy dress-up clothes for interview weeks and parents' days.

Providence Nightlife

This being a college town, there is no end of music bars, small concert halls, and pool pubs. A good source of information is the free weekly Providence Phoenix (www.providencephoenix.com).

The Performing Arts

The Opera Providence (tel. 401/331-6060; www.operaprovidence.org) stages three or four productions a season at various locations, including the Veterans Memorial Auditorium. The Rhode Island Philharmonic (tel. 401/831-3123; www.ri-philharmonic.org) usually appears at the Providence Performing Arts Center or the Veterans Memorial Auditorium. Big-ticket touring musicals on the order of Rent, The Producers, and Monty Python's Spamalot, as well as traveling dance companies and other attractions, are showcased at the Providence Performing Arts Center, 220 Weybosset St. (tel. 401/421-ARTS; www.ppacri.org), while new plays share space with Chekov, Albee, and Shakespeare at the Trinity Repertory Company, 201 Washington St. (tel. 401/351-4242; www.trinityrep.com). The Dunkin' Doughnuts Center, 1 La Salle Sq. (tel. 401/331-2211; www.dunkindonutscenter.com), between the Convention Center and the Holiday Inn Downtown, hosts stellar performers and acts (Bruce Springsteen, among them), along with up-and-comers.

The Club & Music Scene

A tragic nightclub fire in 2003 at the Station in Warwick killed 100 patrons. Strict and expensive regulations were imposed on nightclubs and other music venues, compelling some places to suspend operations or close permanently.

One prominent survivor is Lupo's Heartbreak Hotel, 79 Washington St. (tel. 401/272-5876; www.lupos.com). Formerly at 239 Westminster St., it still hosts a variety of live concerts 2 or 3 nights a week. Tickets can be purchased at www.etix.com; they usually cost between $18 and $35.

For jazz and blues 5 to 7 nights a week, head to the Hi-Hat, 3 Davol Sq. (tel. 401/453-6500; www.thehihat.com). Find it near the west end of the Point Street bridge.

If a heavy bar scene isn't appealing, there's always AS220, 115 Empire St. (tel. 401/831-9327; www.as220.org), which describes itself as "a nonprofit community arts center with work studios" for mostly local visual, musical, and performance artists. It hosts 10 to 12 events every week. Similar in mission is Tazza Caffee & Lounge, 250 Westminster St. (tel. 401/421-3300; www.tazzacaffe.com), an espresso bar open daily from early morning to late night that puts on fashion shows, sculpture exhibits, and poetry readings to go with films and jazz and blues combos.

Many restaurants in the city engage musical groups 2 or more nights a week. These include CAV,. At the Trinity Brewhouse, 186 Fountain St. (tel. 401/453-2337; www.trinitybrewhouse.com), live jazz and blues share attention with boutique beers, a pool table, and a deck.

Movies

For art-house films and midnight cult movies, check the Avon Cinema, 260 Thayer St., near Meeting Street (tel. 401/421-3315; www.avoncinema.com), or the Cable Car, 204 South Main St. (tel. 401/272-3970; www.cablecarcinema.com), which has comfy sofas and free popcorn refills.