Side Trips

Yelapa: Robinson Crusoe Meets Jack Kerouac

It's a cove straight out of a tropical fantasy, and only a 45-minute trip by boat from Puerto Vallarta. Yelapa has no cars and one paved (pedestrian-only) road, and got electricity 6 years ago. It's accessible only by boat. Its tranquillity, natural beauty, and seclusion make it a popular home for hippies, hipsters, artists, writers, and a few expats (looking to escape the stress of the world, or perhaps the law). A seemingly strange mix, but you're unlikely to ever meet a stranger -- Yelapa remains casual and friendly.

To get there, travel by excursion boat or inexpensive water taxi. You can spend an enjoyable day, but I recommend a longer stay -- it provides a completely different perspective.

Once you're in Yelapa, you can lie in the sun, swim, snorkel, eat fresh grilled seafood at a beachside restaurant, or sample the local moonshine, raicilla. The beach vendors specialize in the most amazing pies you've ever tasted (coconut, lemon, or chocolate). Equally amazing is how the pie ladies balance the pie plates on their heads as they walk the beach; they sell crocheted swimsuits, too. You can tour this tiny town or hike up a river to see one of two waterfalls; the closest to town is about a 30-minute walk from the beach. Note: If you use a local guide, agree on a price before you start out. Horseback riding, guided birding, fishing trips, and paragliding are also available.

For overnight accommodations, local residents frequently rent rooms, and there's also the rustic Hotel Lagunita (tel. 322/209-5056 or -5055; www.hotel-lagunita.com). Its 32 cabañas have private bathrooms, and the hotel has electricity, a saltwater pool, primitive spa with massage, an amiable restaurant and bar, as well as the Barracuda Beach lounge and brick-oven pizza cafe, plus a gourmet coffee shop. Though the prices are high for what you get, it is the most accommodating place for most visitors. Double rates run $110 (£55) during the season and $80 (£40) in the off season. Special rooms are available now for honeymooners, for $125 (£63; MasterCard and Visa are accepted). Lagunita has become a popular spot for yoga retreats, and regularly features yoga classes.

A stylish alternative is the fashionable Verana (tel. 800/530-7176 or 322/222-2360; www.verana.com).

If you stay over on a Wednesday or Saturday during the winter, don't miss the regular dance at the Yelapa Yacht Club (no phone). Typically tongue-in-cheek for Yelapa, the "yacht club" consists of a cement dance floor and a disco ball, but the DJ spins a great range of tunes, from Glenn Miller to Kanye West, attracting all ages and types. Dinner ($5-$12/£2.50-£6) is a bonus -- the food may be the best anywhere in the bay. The menu changes depending on what's fresh. Ask for directions; it's in the main village, on the beach.

Nuevo Vallarta & North of Vallarta: All-Inclusives

Many people assume Nuevo Vallarta is a suburb of Puerto Vallarta, but it's a stand-alone destination over the state border in Nayarit. It was designed as a megaresort development, complete with marina, golf course, and luxury hotels. Although it got off to a slow start, it is finally come together, with a collection of mostly all-inclusive hotels on one of the widest, most attractive beaches in the bay. The biggest resort, Paradise Village, has a full marina and an 18-hole golf course inland from the beachside strip of hotels, plus a growing selection of condos and homes for sale. The Mayan Palace also has an 18-hole course here. The Paradise Plaza shopping center, next to Paradise Village, amplifies the area's shopping, dining, and services. It's open daily from 10am to 10pm. To get to the beach, you travel down a lengthy entrance road from the highway, passing by a few remaining fields (which used to be great for birding) but mostly real estate under construction.

Also worthwhile is a day spent at the Etc. Beach Club, Paseo de los Cocoteros 38, Nuevo Vallarta (tel. 322/297-0174). This beach club has a volleyball net, showers, restroom facilities, and food and drink service on the beach, both day and night. To get there, take the second entrance to Nuevo Vallarta coming from Puerto Vallarta and turn right on Paseo de los Cocoteros; it is past the Vista Bahía hotel. It's open daily from 11am to 7pm. Drinks cost $2.50 to $7 (£1.25-£3.50); entrees are $4.50 to $17 (£2.25-£8.50); and they take cash only.

A trip into downtown Puerto Vallarta takes about 30 minutes by taxi, costs about $20 to $25 (£10-£13), and is available 24 hours a day. The ride is slightly longer by public bus, which costs $1.50 (75p) and operates from 7am to 11pm.

Bucerías: A Coastal Village

Only 18km (11 miles) north of the Puerto Vallarta airport, Bucerías ("boo-seh-ree-ahs," meaning "place of the divers") is a small coastal fishing village of 10,000 people in Nayarit state on Banderas Bay. It's caught on as an alternative to Puerto Vallarta for those who find the pace of life there too invasive. Bucerías offers a seemingly contradictory mix of accommodations -- trailer-park spaces and exclusive villa rentals tend to dominate, although there's a small selection of hotels as well.

To reach the town center by car, take the exit road from the highway out of Vallarta and drive down the shaded, divided street that leads to the beach. Turn left when you see a line of minivans and taxis (which serve Bucerías and Vallarta). Go straight ahead 1 block to the main plaza. The beach, with a lineup of restaurants, is a half-block farther. You'll see cobblestone streets leading from the highway to the beach, and hints of villas and town homes behind high walls. Second-home owners and about 1,500 transplanted Americans have already sought out this peaceful getaway; tourists have discovered its relaxed pace as well.

If you take the bus to Bucerías, exit when you see the minivans and taxis to and from Bucerías on the street that leads to the beach. To use public transportation from Puerto Vallarta, take a minivan or bus marked BUCERIAS (they run 6am-9pm). The last minivan stop is Bucerías's town square. There's also 24-hour taxi service.

Exploring Bucerías -- Come here for a day trip from Puerto Vallarta just to enjoy the long, wide, uncrowded beach, along with the fresh seafood served at the beachside restaurants or at one of the cafes. On Saturdays and Sundays, many of the streets surrounding the plaza are closed to traffic for a mercado (street market) -- where you can buy anything from tortillas to neon-colored cowboy hats. If you are inclined to stay a few days, you can relax inexpensively and explore more of Bucerías.

The Coral Reef Surf Shop, Heroe de Nacozari 114-F (tel. 329/298-0261), sells a great selection of surfboards and gear, and offers surfboard and boogie board rentals, surf lessons, and ATV and other adventure tours to surrounding areas.

Where to Stay -- Unfortunately, I cannot recommend any of the hotels in Bucerías; they're run-down, and most people who choose to stay here opt for a private home rental. Check out the villa rental bulletin board at www.sunworx.com. Las Palmas, in Bucerías (tel. 329/298-0060; fax 329/298-0061), will book accommodations, including villas, houses, and condos. Call ahead, or ask for directions to the office when you get to Bucerías. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 2pm and 4 to 6pm, Saturday from 9am to 2pm.

Where to Dine -- There are many seafood restaurants fronting the beach. The local specialty is pescado zarandeado, a whole fish smothered in tasty sauce and slow-grilled.

Punta Mita: Exclusive Seclusion

At the northern tip of the bay is an arrowhead-shaped, 600-hectare (1,482-acre) peninsula bordered on three sides by the ocean, called Punta Mita. Considered a sacred place by the Indians, this is the point where Banderas Bay, the Pacific Ocean, and the Sea of Cortez come together. It's magnificent, with white-sand beaches and coral reefs just offshore. Stately rocks jut out along the shoreline, and the water is a dreamy translucent blue. Punta Mita is evolving into one of Mexico's most exclusive developments. The master plan calls for four luxury hotels, several high-end residential communities, and up to three championship golf courses. It is the first luxury residential development in Mexico intended for the foreign market. Today, what you'll find is the elegant Four Seasons Resort, its Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course, and a selection of rental luxury villas and condos. By fall of 2008, a new 120-room St. Regis Resort will open, along with Punta Mita's second Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course.

Sayulita: Mexico's Current Hot Spot

Sayulita is only 40km (25 miles) northwest of Puerto Vallarta, on Highway 200 to Tepic, yet it feels like a world apart. It captures the simplicity and tranquillity of beach life that has long since left Vallarta -- but hurry, because it's exploding in popularity. For years, Sayulita has been principally a surfers' destination -- the main beach in town is known for its consistent break and long, rideable waves. Recently, visitors and locals who find Vallarta to be too cosmopolitan have started to flock here. The major travel press noticed this trend, and popularized the place to a tipping point in 2007. You'll now find more real estate offices than surf shops, and more fine jewelry stores than juice bars, but Sayulita is still gently holding on to her charms.

An easygoing attitude still prevails in this beach town, despite the niceties popping up amid the basic accommodations, inexpensive Mexican food stands, and handmade, hippie-style-bauble vendors. It's quickly becoming gentrified with new cafes, sleek shops, aromatherapy-infused spas, and elegant villas for rent.

Sayulita is most popular for surfing. Any day, you'll witness an army of surfers seeking perfect-swells offshore from the main beach. You may just as easily encounter a Huichol Indian family that has come down from the Sierra to sell their wares.

To get to Sayulita, you can rent a car, or take a taxi from the airport or downtown Vallarta. The rate is about $60 (£30) to get to the town plaza. You can also take a taxi back to Vallarta. The stand is on the main square, or you can call for pickup at your hotel. The trip to the airport from Sayulita costs $50 (£25). Guides also lead tours to Puerto Vallarta, Punta Mita, and other surrounding areas, including a Huichol Indian community.

Where to Stay -- Sayulita has several private homes for rent. One local expert on Sayulita rentals is Upi Viteri (upiviteri@prodigy.net.mx), who has access to some of the nicest properties.

Where to Dine -- If you are in Sayulita, chances are you heard about it because of Don Pedro's, the most popular restaurant in town, in the heart of the main beach. More popular than fine dining in Sayulita, however, are the pervasive stands hawking cheap fish tacos and other street fare -- which are the best way to dine.

Surfing -- There are two main surf spots in Sayulita -- the most popular is the break fronting the main beach in the village, which is a right longboard break. A faster, left break is found just north of the river mouth, in front of the campground. Surf instruction and board rentals are available at Lunazul Surf School (tel. 329/291-2009; www.lunazulsurf.com) located at Marlin #4, where this street ends at the beachfront. The 90-minute surf lessons cost $40 (£$20) for individual instruction, or $30 (£$15) for group instruction. They also offer 2-day weekend clinics for $80 (£$40) or weeklong clinics for $200 (£$100). Included in all lessons is the use of a surfboard and rashguard. Board rentals through Lunazul are $20 (£10) for the day, or $150 (£75) for the week. Lunazul also has a surf shop, where you can purchase surf gear ranging from wax to boards.

Among the growing number of surfer-chic shops, the standout is Pachamama (tel. 329/291-3468; Defines #6B, www.lesgazelles.com), which sells Tahitian black pearl jewelry, generally strung on leather cords in exquisite yet casual designs, as well as a tightly edited selection of clothing and home design items. The boutique -- owned and operated by a group of free-spirited, lovely French girls with a passion for surfing and sunshine -- is an enchanting visit, whether you end up with a purchase or not.

Nightlife -- Nightlife in Sayulita is as laid back by night as by day, but options are plentiful -- ranging from rowdier bars to live music venues. The locals seem to gravitate to a different locale each night, so when you arrive ask around to see where the evening's hot spot will be. One dependable option is the Buddha Bar (no phone), located at Calle Marlin #8, on the second floor just next to Don Pedros (you can't miss the neon pink sign). It's no relation to the famed Paris or New York venues with the same name, but it likewise serves Pan-Asian cuisine and luscious libations, served amid Buddha statues, pillowed banquettes, and lounge music. On weekends, there is often live music from 10pm until 1am, which tends to draw a dancing crowd. It's open each evening from 6:30pm until about 2am, or when the crowd abates.

San Sebastian: Mountain Hideaway

If you haven't heard about San Sebastián yet, it probably won't be long -- its remote location and historic appeal have made it the Mexican media's new darling destination. Originally discovered in the late 1500s and settled in 1603, the town peaked as a center of mining operations, swelling to a population of over 30,000 by the mid-1800s. Today, with roughly 600 year-round residents, San Sebastián retains all the charm of a village locked in time, with an old church, a coffee plantation, an underground tunnel system -- and wholly without a T-shirt shop.

Getting There -- By car, it's a 2 1/2-hour drive up the Sierra Madre from Puerto Vallarta on an improved road, but it can be difficult during the summer rainy season, when the road washes out frequently. Vallarta Adventures (tel. 888/303-2653 in the U.S., or 322/297-1212, ext. 3; www.vallarta-adventures.com) runs a daily plane service for half-day tours and can occasionally accommodate overnight visitors. The small private airport can arrange flights. Aerotron (tel. 322/221-1921; www.aerotron.com.mx) charges about $140 (£70) round-trip, Aéro Taxis de la Bahía (tel. 322/221-1990 and 222-2049) about $100 (£50) round-trip, depending on the type of plane and number of passengers.

Where to Stay -- There are two places to stay in San Sebastián. The first is the very basic El Pabellón de San Sebastián, which faces the town square. Its nine simply furnished rooms surround a central patio. Don't expect extras here; rates run $50 (£25) per double. The town's central phone lines handle reservations -- you call (tel. 322/297-0200) and leave a message or send a fax, and hopefully the hotel will receive it. Except on holidays, there is generally room at this inn. No credit cards.

A more enjoyable option, the stately Hacienda Jalisco (tel. 322/222-9638; www.haciendajalisco.com), built in 1850, was once the center of mining operations in town. The beautifully landscaped, rambling old hacienda is near the airstrip, a 15-minute walk from town. Proprietor Bud Acord has welcomed John Huston, Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Peter O'Toole, and a cast of local characters over the years.

The five extra-clean rooms have wood floors, rustic furnishings and antiques, and working fireplaces; some are decorated with pre-Columbian reproductions. The ample bathrooms are beautifully tiled and have skylights. Hammocks grace the upstairs terrace, while a sort-of museum on the lower level attests to the celebrity guests and importance the hacienda has enjoyed over the years. Because of its remote location, all meals are included. Rates are $80 (£40) per person per night, and includes full breakfast and dinner; alcoholic beverages are extra. Reserve through e-mail (pmt15@hotmail.com or info@haciendajalisco.com), through the town telephone (tel. 322/297-0200), or on their website. Group rates and discounts for longer stays are available. No credit cards are accepted. Guided horseback, walking, or mine tours can be arranged through the Hacienda.