Hotels

Beyond a varied selection of hotels and resorts, Puerto Vallarta offers many alternative accommodations. Oceanfront or marina-view condominiums and elegant private villas can offer families and small groups a better value and more ample space than a hotel. For more information on short-term rentals, check out www.costavallartaboutiquevillas.com. Prices start at $99 (£54) a night for nonbeachside condos and go to $3,000 (£1,650) for penthouse condos or private villas. Susan Weisman's Bayside Properties, Francisco Rodríguez 160, corner of Olas Altas (tel. 322/223-4424 and 222-8148; www.baysidepropertiespv.com), rents condos, villas, and hotels for individuals and large groups, including gay-friendly accommodations. She can arrange airport pickup and in-villa cooks. Another reputable option is the full-service travel agency, Holland's (tel. 415/841-1194 or 888/8672723; www.puertovallartavillas.com). For the ultimate, indulge in a Punta Mita Villa rental within this exclusive resort. Contact Mita Residential (tel. 877/561-2893 in the U.S., or 329/291-5300; www.mitaresidential.com).

Marina Vallarta -- Marina Vallarta is the most modern and deluxe area of hotel development in Puerto Vallarta. Located immediately south of the airport and just north of the cruise-ship terminal, it's a planned development whose centerpiece is a 450-slip modern marina.

The hotels reviewed in this guide are on the beachfront of the peninsula. The beaches here are much less attractive than beaches in other parts of the bay; the sand is darker, firmly packed, and, during certain times of the year, quite rocky. These hotels compensate with oversize pool areas and exotic landscaping. This area suits families and those looking for lots of centralized activity. Marina Vallarta is also home to an 18-hole golf course designed by Joe Finger.

An excellent choice is Casa Velas, on the golf course at Pelícanos 311 (tel. 866/612-1097 in the U.S., or 322/226-6688; www.hotelcasavelas.com). The elegant, boutique-style hotel has extra large rooms, an on-site spa, and a lovely pool. Although it is not located on the beach, it has a stunning beach club with food and beverage service, a pool, and sun chairs, with shuttle service for guests. High-season rates average $650 (£358), all inclusive.

Due to traffic (rather than distance), a taxi from the Marina to downtown takes 20 to 30 minutes.

The Hotel Zone -- The main street running between the airport and town is Avenida Francisco Medina Ascencio. The hotels here offer excellent, wide beachfronts with generally tranquil waters for swimming. From here it's a quick taxi or bus ride to downtown.

Downtown to Los Muertos Beach -- This part of town has recently undergone a renaissance; economical hotels and good-value guesthouses dominate. Several blocks off the beach, you can find numerous budget inns offering clean, simply furnished rooms; most offer discounts for long-term stays. Much of Vallarta's nightlife activity now centers in the areas south of the Río Cuale and along Olas Altas.