Restaurants

Puerto Vallarta has the most exceptional dining scene of any resort town in Mexico. Over 250 restaurants serve cuisines from around the world, in addition to fresh seafood and regional dishes. Chefs from France, Switzerland, Germany, Italy, and Argentina have come for visits and stayed to open restaurants. In celebration of this diversity, Vallarta's culinary community hosts a 2-week-long gourmet dining festival each November.

Of the inexpensive local spots, one favorite is El Planeta Vegetariano, Iturbide 270, just down from the main church (tel. 322/222-3073), serving an inexpensive, bountiful, and delicious vegetarian buffet, which changes for breakfast and lunch/dinner. It's open daily. Breakfast ($5) is served from 8am till noon; the lunch and dinner buffets ($7.50) are served from noon to 10pm; no credit cards are accepted.

Tapas, Anyone? -- Certainly much of modern Mexico's culture draws on the important influence of Spain, so it only makes sense that Spanish culinary traditions would be evident as well. Of the many options, these are my favorites: the long-standing Barcelona Tapas, Matamoros and 31 de Octubre streets (tel. 322/222-0510), a large and lovely restaurant on a terrace built high on a hillside, with sweeping views of the bay. They serve tapas and a selection of Spanish entrees, including paella, from 5pm to midnight. La Esquina de los Caprichos, Miramar 402, corner of Iturbide (tel. 322/222-0911), is a tiny place, known as having the most reasonably priced ($3.50-$8) tapas in town, and perhaps the tastiest. Hours are Monday to Saturday from 11am to 10pm. It closes from July to the end of August.

Marina Vallarta

Most of the best restaurants in the Marina are in hotels, but a number of quality options line the boardwalk bordering the marina yacht harbor as well.

South of the Rio Cuale to Olas Altas

South of the river is the densest restaurant area, where you'll find Basilio Badillo, the street nicknamed "Restaurant Row." A second main dining drag has emerged along Calle Olas Altas, with a variety of cuisines and price categories. Cafes and espresso bars, generally open from 7am to midnight, line its wide sidewalks.