When artisans from Rouen settled in Quimper, the city became forever associated with ceramics. It produces the most recognized and the most popular French porcelain. Typical are chunky white pieces painted with blue-and-yellow Breton figures, fruits, and flowers. The most popular feature a male Breton or a female Bretonne, both in profile and in traditional Breton costume. Today, that 19th-century design is copyrighted and fiercely protected.
The best shopping streets are rue Kéréon and rue du Parc, where you'll find Breton products including pottery, dolls and puppets, clothing made from regional cloth and wool, jewelry, lace, and beautiful Breton costumes.
One of three sites that produce stoneware is open for tours. Monday through Friday from 9am to 4:30pm, five to seven tours a day depart from the visitor information center of HB-Henriot Faïenceries de Quimper, rue Haute, Quartier Locmaria (tel. 02-98-90-09-36; www.hb-henriot.com). Tours, in English or French or both, last 40 to 45 minutes and cost 3.50€ ($5.10) for adults, 2€ ($2.90) for children 8 to 14, and free for children 7 and under. On-site, a store sells the most complete inventory of Quimper porcelain in the world. You can invest in first-run (nearly perfect) pieces or slightly discounted "seconds," with nearly imperceptible flaws. Anything you buy can be shipped.
For other Breton pottery and pieces of the faïence once heavily produced in this area, visit François le Villec, 4 rue Roi-Gradlon (tel. 02-98-95-31-54). Here you'll find quality tablecloths, linens, and other household linens.
Another good choice for Breton items is La Galerie le Cornet à Dés, 1 rue Ste-Thérêse (tel. 02-98-53-37-51). It stocks hand-painted porcelain and antique and contemporary paintings, mostly of Quimper landscapes.
